Teak Veneer on Sliding Hatch - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 7 Old 02-13-2011 Thread Starter
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Teak Veneer on Sliding Hatch

I'm rebuilding my sliding hatch and have built a plywood core and had originally planned on using fiberglass as the finish. I have some teak veneer and wondered if that could be an option for covering the main part of the hatch or would the veneer not last long and I would be back to rebuilding the hatch in a couple of years. Anyone have experience with teak veneer and it's durability?
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post #2 of 7 Old 02-13-2011
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I suspect the key would be in the original bond, and sealing it from the weather (and keeping it that way). Heat from direct sunlight will expand any air bubbles that may be trapped under the veneer if the application isn't perfect.. otherwise no reason not to try it.
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post #3 of 7 Old 02-13-2011
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If the teak is applied with epoxy after washing it with acetone to remove the wood's natural oils it will work well. I would epoxy the plywood, wash it to remove the blush after it sets and then sand lightly. After it is on and set sand the teak for a smooth finish and seal with a couple or three coats of epoxy before varnish or Cetol. Could be left as bare teak as well.

If you go to Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration
and download the Fiberglass Repair Manual pdf at the top of the page the method for installing teak over a deck is explained.

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Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #4 of 7 Old 02-13-2011
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the trouble (been there, tried that) with epoxy and veneer is the bleed through of the epoxy, and getting a complete bond without air pockets in the veneer.

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post #5 of 7 Old 02-13-2011
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Would depend on the veneer thickness. And if you are going to coat it with epoxy for protection under varnish or Cetol it makes no difference. It would only be a problem if you wanted to leave the teak bare.

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post #6 of 7 Old 02-13-2011
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I have not done this myself but have seen this done and the results were just like buying teak ply. A guy I met down in Willmington Nc was rebuilding an older boat and doing all his own veneer work. He used
titebond III wood glue. he learned that it is heat activated, so he would roll on a coat on to the ply and also on to the venneer and let it dry then position the veneer where he wanted it an used a dry hot flat iron to set the glue. Not your wifes good one unless you want to buy her a new one! Then sand and finish. His results were amazing, give it a try.
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-13-2011 Thread Starter
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Great advice
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