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Removal of fuel tank from Newport 28

10K views 33 replies 12 participants last post by  jaschrumpf 
#1 ·
Just discovered my diesel fuel tank not only has a leak but also needs to be cleaned out of 30 years of muck! Has anyone tried to remove the diesel fuel tank from a Newport 28 (Capital Yacht)? Would be grateful to know how it could be done!

Many thanks for any help on this major pain...!
Jimmy (Bateau25)
 
#3 ·
Hi Brian,
Good point. You're right, I might as well replace it. But I still have to yank it out under the settee as there is no other place for a 20 gal tank next to the engine. I can't even drain it properly so I can save whatever diesel there is in there!
Much appreciated your idea,
Jimmy
 
#8 ·
Sorry - never answered the drain question - I just used the old standard Jabsco engine oil drain pump. It moves a fair amount of product with each pump. Tank still had five gallons or so when I finally pulled it. And I replaced it not because of leaks - but I couldn't keep the fuel fresh.
 
#9 ·
Still part of my initial question - how did you pull the tank out? did you have enough space to pull it through (I don't), and how was it secured to the inside surface of the hull or to the bulkheads?
I just did some spelunking in there again but I can't see how on earth the tank can be pulled when its width is greater that the largest opening above the settee (my guess is they put the tank in when the boat was being built and before the deck was screwed or glassed on!)
Many thanks for the really useful and helpful info!
 
#10 ·
The old fuel is probably not worth keeping - and I wouldn't put ancient fuel in a new tank in any case. But removing it first will both eliminate chances of spills and make the tank lighter to lift out.

My tank is installed under the cockpit sole and above the engine. When I replaced my tank recently I had the new tank custom made and it has a drain at the bottom. There is a ball valve and a screw in plug so it will not be opened by mistake. Makes it easy to drain both to clean the tank and if removal ever becomes necessary. This is only possible with diesel.
 

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#12 ·
Brian,
That's a nice set up - so easy to maintain. many thanks for all the info. I think I will go ahead and decommission the old fuel tank and , like you did, just use a 5 gallon tank since I also use up only that much each year. Will probably have to have a custom tank made for the purpose.

Best...
Jimmy
 
#13 ·
Had a similar situation but on a water tank. It was too wide and too tall to fit thru the cabin door. I had to cut it into 3 sections and remove it thus. I used a combination of Cut off tool, Air snips, and jig saw to do this. I did replace my fuel tank also. It would not remove without taking off the filler neck and vent tubes. I also used a cutoff wheel to do this. If I had needed to I would have cut the tank into sections also. I did first remove the fuel THROUGH the water separator / filter via a small electric fuel pump I use for emptying tanks on junk boats etc and filled multiple 5 gall fuel cans with it. The last few gallons of fuel were nasty so I did not re use this but used it for firestarting at our camp. I sucked out as much of the muck at the bottom as possible then removed the tank. Found a tank where I only lost 3 gallons of total capacity. Diesel does not have a high flash point so I was not too concerned about sparks but kept a blanket and fire extinguisher near by when cutting the tank. Hope it helps somewhat,
 
#14 ·
I pulled my stainless steel fuel tank to fix a fuel leak 2 years ago, and I 'm glad I did. Previously, whenever I went out to the boat after a few days, I would find a teaspoon of diesel in the bilge. I couldn't find the source of the leak. The smell was driving me crazy, so I bit the bullet and went to work.

I had to cut out the fiberglass covering and pull the tank through my lazarette with a block & tackle hung from the boom. I had to cut a couple of the tangs that held the ~25 gallon tank to the hull and bulkhead. When I finally got it out after much tugging and pulling, I found that the outer seam had a minute crack, as if the welding had failed where the tank met the hull; who knows why. The tank had been floating in about a gallon of diesel that was trapped underneath. At least this loose fuel was contained by the bulkhead.

Since the tank was stainless steel, it was easily repaired at the local welding shop. When I got it back, it slipped back into place, and I reconnected the supply lines and pipes, cut a piece of 3/4" marine plywood to fit over, with brackets to hold everything down, and it's been fine ever since.

Not sure if I would have kept an aluminum tank, though. Probably would replace, since they corrode slowly over the years.
 
#15 ·
Thanks to both DulceSuerna and Sailor25b - very helpful info!
I think my tank is stainless steel, and it looks like the only way it could come out is sideways - sliding to where the engine is located and then out to the cabin and then out of the boat. Since I am pulling the engine, then I (hope) I can pull the tank as well. I think I will just replace this 30-year old tank to simplify matters with a portable 5 to 7-gallon that could be taken out anytime. This way I should have less problems keeping the diesel fresh and be able to clean it out when required. After all, this is a sailboat, so I never really intended to do much motoring as the primary motive power. If I have to cruise over a long period, then I will just have to bring extra Jerry cans or plan my refueling stops carefully. Custom-made stainless steel of course with provisions to connect to existing filler tube, return tube, vent tube and fuel gage. Hope this works! Will report back when I finish the project.
many thanks again for all the inspiring ideas!
 
#17 ·
I've done it before.

I'm late to this thread and half asleep so sorry if I have missed something key. Just here to say I used to own a Newport 28+ and had to remove a leaking fuel tank. Removing the tank, as I recall, required me to cut away some of the framing around it and slide it out. It was surgery, but not absurd.

I had to replace my tank anyway because it was leaking, and had one custom made in Florida to my drawings and specifications. I forget where, but could find the receipt if you wanted.

Long and short is that it wasn't that painful of a job, although at the time I was new to boat repair and so had fear of screwing something up. Looking back, it was a physically hard but technically straightforward project.

Good luck and enjoy your great boat. A good Newport 28 is among my favorite ways to be on the water.
 
#18 ·
Interesting points to consider - thanks everyone! Indeed I should be concerned about installing a permanent tank if only for re-sale purposes. I will examine all the options as soonlas I start the surgical extraction of this tank! Thanks also to Aeolus for assuring me it can be done!
 
#19 ·
You may also want to check out this thread. Post 21 has a link to some good pictures of how to remove a tank from an O'day 34/35.
 
#20 ·
Hi Jimmy -

On the O'Day 302 - the tank was at the bottom of the cockpit lazarette. Under the floor - with cross bracing. Everything was screwed in place. Removed all hoses and emptied tank as best I could - tank was formed to fit the hull. Very little clearance but there was room to pull it up thru the fiberglass opening. Spent most of the day standing on my head - no fun - but I am glad to be rid of the nasty fuel issue.

Hope this helps - unfortunately I do not have any experience with Newports. Maybe someone else can help you with this.

Jurgy
 
#21 ·
Welcome aboard Jim...for your consideration...
Being that you have a 20 gal. tank and don't use all that much fuel, you may consider cutting the top off your tank (to the size you can access)
and then sourcing a slightly smaller tank that will fit in
the opening and into your old tank. You can install permanent with spraying foam insulation around perimeter between old and new or put sheet insulation
between the two and a couple of web straps over the top.
Someone on sailnet posted that they cut the top off an old tank lined it with carpet and installed a flexible bladder tank.
Either way might be a lot less work and still have a large
enough tank if you decide to do some cruising.
Hugo
 
#23 ·
If he is going to the trouble of removing the old tank,
certainly why not install a new tank.
Tank may slide right out when engine removed as Jim
indicated in his post #15.
Suggestion was based on not removing tank, may not be so easy to remove with limited access.
Grid off top in place, let's say instead of having to cut
entire tank out.
Hugo
 
#24 ·
If the tank is that hard to get at it might be pretty hard to cut the top in place. And depending on how it is mounted, removing the top may not give any space to place a smaller tank inside. On many tanks, mine included, it is only 3" below the cockpit footwell.
Moving an engine forward is not too difficult - also a good time to see if the engine mounts need replacement.
 
#25 ·
Brian, You may be right...may be to hard to cut top of tank off in place, and may not have enough space for a
smaller tank inside. But just maybe...
If tank does not come out easy when motor
removed Jim won't have to cut away some framing
as bwindrope had to do on his Newport 28 in post #17.
Don't know let's see, but hopefully we can agree, we (all)
have given Jim some options to consider.
Hugo
 
#26 ·
Hi Hugo,
Just got back from the boat today. Indeed, the tank is odd-shaped trapezoidal what-not - I will have to cut some framing to get the tank out (as Bwindrope said) but it looks like there is little risk of compromising integrity of the structure. So I'm going ahead with the surgery as soon as the engine is out of the way! I thought long and hard about your attractive suggestion of cutting the top and putting a new tank in. But after some investigation, it seems Brian is right, at the stern end it is only 3.2 inches deep so I won't be able to fit a new tank inside unless it is custom made to fit - in which case considering the cost I might as well replace the whole thing with a custom made. As soon as the tank is out I should be able to take it from there!

Many thanks again to all for the excellent and very helpful insights!

Jimmy (Bateau25)
 
#29 ·
Hi Hugo,
Just got back from the boat today. Indeed, the tank is odd-shaped trapezoidal what-not - I will have to cut some framing to get the tank out (as Bwindrope said) but it looks like there is little risk of compromising integrity of the structure. So I'm going ahead with the surgery as soon as the engine is out of the way! I thought long and hard about your attractive suggestion of cutting the top and putting a new tank in. But after some investigation, it seems Brian is right, at the stern end it is only 3.2 inches deep so I won't be able to fit a new tank inside unless it is custom made to fit - in which case considering the cost I might as well replace the whole thing with a custom made. As soon as the tank is out I should be able to take it from there!

Many thanks again to all for the excellent and very helpful insights!

Jimmy (Bateau25)
Good luck with the Project. I have a '82 28 Newport II and looks like my tank shifted towards the centerline, since the fiberglass tabbing is not attached to the hull side of tha tank anymore. Boat has been on the hard for many years, and the tank is empty, but no diesel smell. I did use a old MightyMAC vacuum tester and it held vacuum for an hour....
 
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