Moving chainplates outboard (from "through deck" configuration), I have a question.. - Page 7 - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #61  
Old 02-25-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSuperiorGeezer View Post
To outrun storms, how about a top fuel dragster engine, Chrysler Hemi 426, with racing alcohol, 85% nitromethane and about 15% methanol, instead of gasoline. Top fuel dragster Worlds Fastest Cars
That's just silly LSG..

I need practical...
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Old 02-25-2011
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I will take your word for that

"Urine is salty"

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Urine is salty. Potato chips are salty. Which would you rather ingest?

Sometimes, salty is a bad thing.


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  #63  
Old 02-25-2011
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Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
That's just silly LSG..

I need practical...
Quite true, so about the 2GM20, does it have fresh water cooling (heat exchanger) or has salt water been eating at its insides.
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  #64  
Old 02-25-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
A lot of work for no gain. Drill out the bulkhead mounting points for the chainplates and pot with thickened epoxy, use larger hardware, build deck islands out of thickened epoxy to deter water intrusion through the chainplate ports, and call it done. Bigger, stronger, better, faster, cheaper with no change in geometry.
I'm not so sure that the change in geometry would be all that big a deal. Moving the shroud outboard 4 inches would only increase the angle by about one degree. I seriously doubt that the original tangs, etc., were made with a tolerance of less than one degree.
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  #65  
Old 02-26-2011
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Hi , I am in the same situation with my Utzon 30 spidsgatter, with a want to negate as much potential water ingress through deck as possible, The plates I have seen are recessed behind rub rails etc with nice flat sections,I photographed a liberty 30 setup the other day I will try to post same, I will follow your thread with much interest. cheers chris
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Old 02-26-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procrastonator View Post
Hi , I am in the same situation with my Utzon 30 spidsgatter, with a want to negate as much potential water ingress through deck as possible, The plates I have seen are recessed behind rub rails etc with nice flat sections,I photographed a liberty 30 setup the other day I will try to post same, I will follow your thread with much interest. cheers chris
Thanks! Feel free to check out my site in my sig and email me with any progress you make as well, I'd be interested to see your progress and what you come up with.
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Old 02-26-2011
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Guys and Gals.. Since this thread drifted into an engine discussion that I thought had some pretty valuable info hidden behind the 'chainplate' title, I've culled the relevant posts to its own thread.

You'll find it here:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel...d-replace.html

Carry on!
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  #68  
Old 02-26-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Guys and Gals.. Since this thread drifted into an engine discussion that I thought had some pretty valuable info hidden behind the 'chainplate' title, I've culled the relevant posts to its own thread.

You'll find it here:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel...d-replace.html

Carry on!
Nice, thanks!
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  #69  
Old 02-27-2011
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Wow, that's pretty good for a 52nd stater... Thanks Faster.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Guys and Gals.. Since this thread drifted into an engine discussion that I thought had some pretty valuable info hidden behind the 'chainplate' title, I've culled the relevant posts to its own thread.

You'll find it here:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel...d-replace.html

Carry on!
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Old 10-28-2011
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I have had my boat a 48 ft frers 1980 out of the water for 4 months and noticed the
Teak deck cracked across the grain adjacent to the single in line chain plate. I figure this could be due to temporary hogging of the boat, plus drying of the teak plus or either slight movement of the chain plate/s either way, listening to you guys I think I will take a closer look. Ps It's been it's very hot here in Dubai.
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