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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 03-01-2011
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For the deck penetration, the Dri-Plug comes highly recommended. You can get one just for the coax, or you can buy one that passes mast power wiring AND the coax.

Dri-Plug
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyandjebus View Post
My thought is to use the gland with a one foot piece of cable, connectors at either end.
That is not a very good idea. Every connector causes an impendence bump and consequent loss. If you use male connectors at each end of your 1' cable, barrel connectors, and male connectors on the cables in each direction that is FOUR connections, two of which have to be completely waterproof.

Can't you just run continuous cable from the masthead to the radio? On the occasions when you do have to take out the mast you can disassemble the clam and pull the cable back from the radio to the deck. On most boats that isn't so awful.

The Dri Plug is interesting. I wish the pictures were bigger and the specs more apparent.
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  #13  
Old 03-01-2011
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Again, thanks all for the replies.


SVA
Point taken on limiting the # of connections. With that said running a single cable thru the deck to the radio is problematic in my mind, having to disassemble a thru deck fitting twice a year may cause it's own set of problems.

At this point my own concern is weither to solder the connections or use fittings. I think what I may do is but several feet of cable and solder type connections and practice my soldering.

LakeSureriorGeezer.
Thanks for the details. I do have one question regarding RG8 cable. My local store sells it by the foot but it called RG8X.
Is this the same as RG8?
I will be dropping by their store this weekend to get more details

See link below for details on the cable they sell.

RG8X Coax Cable - Pride Marine - Ontario Canada

Thanks,
John
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Old 03-01-2011
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John, if you use Solder-It paste (Lowes has it fresher and cheaper than Radio Shack) instead of regular solder, it is much easier to get the solder flowing into the coax shield. I'll dry-fit the connector, then apply the paste to the shield and reseat it in the connector. Now there's already solder INSIDE the fitting, so it is very easy to get it melted and filling properly.

Two drawbacks: it does cost a little more, and it goes stale (hardens) in the tube in a year or so. But it sure makes the soldering easy.
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Old 03-01-2011
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hellosalior

Your timing is perfect on your advice, lowes just opened a store in my town, I'll be dropping by tomorrow night.

Thanks,
John
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Old 03-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyandjebus View Post
Thanks for the details. I do have one question regarding RG8 cable. My local store sells it by the foot but it called RG8X.
Is this the same as RG8?
No. As I said earlier:
I would suggest you use RG8X cable for the length of run you will need. It is a 6mm cable and a good compromise between the 10mm RG213 or RG8 and the 5mm RG58 which should not be used for long runs, although often is. RG58 is just too lossy to give you the performance required by, for instance, the offshore racing authorities. RG8X is OK for up to 20m or so - more than that and you need RG8 or RG213.

Your cable should be tinned and the center core should be stranded so that it is flexible. The braid coverage should exceed 90%. Berkshire and Ancor are both good.

Hope this helps.
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