reinstalling rail hardware - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 03-08-2011
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reinstalling rail hardware

I did a quick search but did not find what I was looking for. I have a 20 year old 35' sloop (Holby Marine, Clearwater model) and I am redoing the exterior teak. Stripping, sanding, Cetol Natural and gloss, it is coming out good (to my satisfaction) compared to the what it looked like when I bought it 3 years ago.

StrbdSide Toe rail (as purchased) to Aft trim (refinished).



Port side Toe Rail (stripped and sanded) to Aft Trim (refinished)



I am removing the Stainless Steel (heavy and non magnetic) hardware and I will reinstall with new screws (the existing screws seem to be a mixture of what ever was available when some came loose).

My question is should I fill the existing holes with epoxy and re-drill, or will that just remove the epoxy? Or should I drill for slightly deeper screws (I have plenty of depth) fill the holes, thread it with a screw, back it out and reinsert the screws after the epoxy is cured and the rail is stained?

Here is what I have for epoxy,


The LifeCalk is what I am using to fill any gaps between the rail and the deck. There are NO leaks anywhere and the rail mounting is very solid, so I am not removing the teak from the boat, just want to re-install the SS caps.

Comments, suggestions welcome.

thanks,
Ron
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Old 03-08-2011
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I would fill the holes with thickened epoxy, sand smooth when set, and drill new holes.
I can't see what you have there exactly, but I would use a 2 part liquid epoxy with some colloidal silica mixed in to thicken it to a sloppy mayonnaise consistency - it will be stronger than unthickened epoxy. Good epoxy done this way is tougher than the wood it is in, easily drilled, and will hold screws. If you have the depth I would use longer screws as well.
I use West epoxy, but MAS, System 3, and other name brands will work well.
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Last edited by mitiempo; 03-08-2011 at 10:12 PM. Reason: cor
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Old 03-09-2011
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Brian,
Thanks, pretty much what the local marine mechanic recommended. He suggested West Systems G-Flex (I have no affiliation with any marine products, I just PAY!). Apparently this material maintains a little flexibility while still bonding well, so it works well for anything that might flex a little bit or dissimilar materials.
WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex

WM carries it in a repair kit that contains the epoxy and filler, plus syringes in about the quantity I need.
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Old 03-09-2011
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That should work well. I'm not sure where you are but if it is cool let it set for a couple of days before drilling, after one day in cool weather it isn't always that hard.
I use West 105 resin with 206 slow hardener (for max working time) and use a variety of thickeners depending on the circumstances.
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Old 03-09-2011
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Brian,
Not so cold here in NC, its already looking like spring. I have the 105 with 207 clear hardener ($$$) that I used on my interior floorboards that I was thinking about using, but the cost of a can of filler (at WM) just about covered the cost of the G-Flex kit ( ~$20) and I did not need that much filler.

Would teak sawdust be a good filler (I am generating enough of it)? I imagine it would for cosmetic fixes but these are covered screw holes.

I'll use new (slightly larger) screws to hold the metal strake on the toe rails, but I want the flat head screws to be flush with the top of the metal as the dock lines rub on these. I may go with oval heads on the rub rail just for more beef in the screw head.
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Old 03-09-2011
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I wouldn't suggest teak as it is a bit oily. Gypsum or talc works well though.
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Last edited by mitiempo; 03-09-2011 at 05:37 PM. Reason: add
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