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post #1 of 5 Old 03-14-2011 Thread Starter
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Thru-Hull Install

I am replacing my engine cooling intake grate/thru-hull from a 1/2" to a 3/4" grate.

The 1/2" threaded grate has only one flange mounting hole in the back where a long thing bronze screw secures it from not spinning. It is also where I put a grounding wire to it. Basically the threaded portion is the primary mean of securing it to the hull.

The 3/4" grate has 2 or 4 mounting holes, plus the threaded section, to secure to the hull. The plan was to use this in conjuction with true seacock or a thread it into a seacock flange and then put a ball valve, with the correct thread, on top of the flange.

The issue is that the flange has three mounting holes, GROCO FULL FLOW BALL-TYPE SEACOCK, and the thru hole strainer 2 to 4 mounting holes. I am concerned that if use all the holes, the seacock flange will cover the thru-hull and vise versa. I am also adverse to drilling a bunch of hole in the bottom of the boat for screws.

Ideas?

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Last edited by Faster; 03-14-2011 at 12:55 PM. Reason: fix auto filter
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post #2 of 5 Old 03-14-2011
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Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

I went with Mainsails no bolt when i replaced mine and it has worked out very well

I dont really care for the external strainers and find the internal one works well and i can see and clean any junk

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post #3 of 5 Old 03-14-2011
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The through hull area is likely a breeding ground for barnacles, and the strainer provides them with shelter so that they cannot be removed.

Also, in the possibility that you suck a piece of plastic or weed through the strainer which blocks the through hull itself, the strainer prevents you from clearing the through hull.

Loose it!
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post #4 of 5 Old 03-14-2011
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Feel free to read this..

Why I Dislike External Strainers

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-Maine Sail / CS-36T


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post #5 of 5 Old 03-14-2011
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The hardest part is figuring out how thick to make you filler

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