rewire 10m pearson 1976

[mistyg]

Looking for a wiring grid for these boats?

Any help is appreciated,

Hubb

[mitiempo]

A lot could have been changed in the last 35 years! Probably best just to trace wires as you go. I seldom see a schematic that applies to a boat's current wiring.

[mistyg]

thank you Brian

[ccriders]

Is this: http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/wiring.gif what you wanted?
John

[SeaFever2000]

Hi Hubb,

I have a 1975 Pearson 10M. PM me if you have any other questions after you look at what John posted. Will be happy to help in any way I can. I do have a good amount information I have collected on the 10M since I have acquired it in 2007.

Cheers.

[mistyg]

Terrific. I need lots of information. I just just her after years of being una ttended at a local yard. The last splash was 2007.

Where would you start? I have an engine mechanic looking over the Farymann this weekend. Sails look just ok enough to keep for another season. Do you have a roller furhling? How did you size it?

3 batteries? do you have them all in the starboard cockpit locker? I hear people relocate them...where?

My teak floor was badly soaked with water from the mast hole not being totaly covered..how can I bring it back? Sand it? Can I varnish?

Sorry you responsed yet?

Hubb

[SeaFever2000]

Hi Hubb,

Glad to help in any way I can. Here is some information...

Sails: If you need sails, you can find used sails at reasonable prices at various sources on the web such as eBay, Minney's Yacht Surplus -, Texas Resale Shop etc. Just look up the rig dimensions at SAILBOAT RIG DIMENSIONS OFFICIAL WEBSITE and compare the dimensions of the used sail (or its boat) with the 10Ms. What sails would you be looking for?

Roller Furling (RF): I did not have to install/change the RF. My Sea Fever came with the stock 'Stearns Dynafurl' roller furling that is working fine even today! I just changed the delrin bearing inserts for the swivel and that was it. Jim Stearns made some good roller furlings in his day. I have known of people changing the RF on their 10Ms with ProFurl, Harken etc.

Batteries: I have had 2 Group 27 batteries in my 10M. One was installed in the STA locker and another on STA side of the Atomic 4 inside the engine compartment. When I re-powered to a diesel last year, I removed the battery from the engine compartment and moved it to the STA locker beside the other battery. I made a box and glassed it in. I will see if I can find some pictures of before/after of the battery re-location and attach them here. Making the new box took some creativity and measurement but was not a big deal. Some measuring and 'forming' with cardboard template and then on the cutting marine ply and glassing.

Floor: Fix the leak from the mast pronto! Suggest take a look at Spartite They have some great products. You will need to measure the cross-section of the mast and send it to them or send them the type of spar - you can get information from Dan's website at Pearson 10M Info refer to the Mast section.

I don't have a teak floor in the saloon but a FG floor with custom carpet on it. IF you have a teak and holly floor, I guess careful sanding and varnish is the way to go. Remember the teak and holly veneer is very thin! Let the floor dry properly (after you fix the mast boot) and then tackle it.

Hope this helps.

[mistyg]

great thanks. The mast is currently out I appreciate the links. Can you explain the %'s attached to jib /genny options 150% -135%? If I was only going to buy one as versital a possible what would i consider?

[SeaFever2000]

The percentages are reference of the size of the sails with respect to the fore-triangle. Here are some examples:

- If the foot of the jib reaches just around the mast when fully un-furled (pulled out of the furler) it is called 100%
- if it is smaller than the fore triangle and reached about 70% of the way - it is a 70% jib
- it it reached further aft than the mast, they are called Genoa's. one that reached 110%, or 150% are called 110% and 150% Genoa's respectively.

Hope that explains it.

If you have to select one sail then the one you use will have to be based on the area where you sail, the weather, and what kind of sailing you do. Sometimes people reef the jib/genoa (collectively called a fore-sail) using the furler. That is if the furler allows for reefing. That means you only un-furl as much as you need.

If you are new to sailing and it is generally windy where you sail I would advise a 70%. It is small enough for you to easily handle it and not get over powered by it and big enough to give you good sail area to keep moving. You can easily sail close-hauled with it even in San Francisco Bay (where we have some fast winds come up pretty quickly). If you were to have a furler allowing you to reef the sail you may look at a genoa since that you can reef and sail it as a 100% or 70%. However the sail shape suffers and then people spend on getting some other modifications to the sail luff that allows for good sail shape when reefed. $$$s again. Most people end up having at least 2, one job 70% and a genoa ~ 120%. Bigger than that is a challenge to handle and you need a bit of experience.

If you have a furler and intend to keep the sail on the furler and not take it down every time, I would invest in a sail cover. This is done by having the sailmaker stitch sunbrella fabric on the leech and the foot (about 1.5 foot width) so that when you furl it the sunbrella covers the furled sail and protects it. The width of the cover depends on the circumference of the furled sail which the sailmaker will estimate if you don't know.

Hope that helps. Note the sails are expensive. Putting on a cover may run up $500-$700 by itself. Would be ideal to find one with a cover already stitched on, but that is rare and the asking price will be higher.

Do you know how to PM (private message) on this forum? You can private message me if you would like and we can talk about your requirement in more detail. I may have some specific suggestions.