Bottom paint: Micron Extra/CSC, Pettit Ultima SR-40/SR-60 - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 58 Old 03-23-2011
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From Pratical Sailor in regards to the Pettit SR-40

"the West Marine paints made by Pettit: PCA Gold (re-branded Ultima SR-40)"

Not sure if it's 100% true as Pettit advertises the SR-40 as a dual biocide paint with PTFE (Teflon) and WM only clams Irgarol as the biocide and no PTFE.


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post #22 of 58 Old 03-26-2011
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ok...I bought 2 gallons of the Petit Ultima SR60 as recommended by T37chef. Any special notes I need to know about application as it has such a high Cu content?

BTW. Defender is having a great sale on Petit Bottom Paints. I got the UltimaSR60 for $200 / gallon no tax with a twenty dollar rebate per gallon to mail in.

Dave


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post #23 of 58 Old 03-26-2011
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Originally Posted by chef2sail View Post
ok...I bought 2 gallons of the Petit Ultima SR60 as recommended by T37chef. Any special notes I need to know about application as it has such a high Cu content?

BTW. Defender is having a great sale on Petit Bottom Paints. I got the UltimaSR60 for $200 / gallon no tax with a twenty dollar rebate per gallon to mail in.

Dave
Use a drill with a stirrer and stir it frequently and right before each pour into the roller tray. Only pour enough into the tray for a few "dips" of the roller.

I actually made the move over to Pettit Horizons or the Ultima SR series due to slower ablative speeds. It begins to ablade, wear away, at slower speeds than the Micron line does thus working better at sloughing on a sailboat. I found with Micron I rarely got to my tracer color and the slime would build up worse than the slower speed ablatives. I wanted to try Hydrocoat but after speaking with the rep and tech support I discovered it does not begin to ablade until a higer speed is reached. This is fine for a power boat, Sea Ray's ship with Hydrocoat, but on a sail boat I like a paint that begins to slough at 2-3 knots vs, 6-7+ to avoid build up..

Some slow speed ablatives:

Multi-Season:

Ultima SR products
Petitt Horizons (the non-slime version of SR)
West Marine PCA Gold


Single season:

Interlux ACT (this stuff is about as soft as it gets)
Pettit SSA (Single Season Ablative or as the rep calls it "Super Soft Ablative)

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 03-26-2011 at 07:01 AM.
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post #24 of 58 Old 03-26-2011
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Thanks Maine for the advice on the drill stirrer. I imagine with the extra CU content its important to keep it in solution

Your reasons for swtiching over from Micro to Petit were exactly mine. The sloughing off of the sline layer at the sailboat speed should make an improvement. I must say I was always happy with the Micron Extra...but I use the boat quite frequently so I may not have seen the difference others have.

Dave


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post #25 of 58 Old 03-26-2011
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I have had great luck with micron extra. Also tried the west marine version and it is much cheaper, the results where ok but it was evident that I got what I paid for.
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post #26 of 58 Old 03-27-2011
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We all have different needs for different waters. We are fresh water - no barnicles at all. I'd just like a little help making the slime come off easier at the end of the season. So I'll chime in on my paint choice, since it's different from anyone else here.

My boat had stale WM Bottomshield on the hull when I bought it a year ago. Not the right paint choice because the boat is hauled every year. However, the rudder had an ablative - not sure what grade, but the marina who replaced the rudder typically uses Interlux Micron.

In the 2+ knot tidal currents of the Delaware River, with the occasional piece of driftwood that would get stuck in my slip and slide past the rudder 4x/day, the ablative wore off at the waterline in less than a month. Even below the waterline, it was gone after about 2 months. The current was just too much for that paint. I estimate that the current causes my boat to effectively "sail" about 20 miles a day just sitting in the slip.

Because of these wear issues I went searching for a hard paint that can survive haulout every winter without needing to recoat. Pettit Vivid is the only one I could find. Apparently the cuprous thiocyanide does not lose its effectiveness in the air like cuprous oxide. So I have it on order.

Have any of you used Pettit Vivid? Comments on it?


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post #27 of 58 Old 03-27-2011
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The only problem with using the hard paints is that you should sand sown before applying multiple coats so it is an added step. Thats amazing that the ablative wears off so fast as I though most were not effective until you hit 6 knots or so,

Dave


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post #28 of 58 Old 03-27-2011
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The only problem with using the hard paints is that you should sand sown before applying multiple coats so it is an added step. Thats amazing that the ablative wears off so fast as I though most were not effective until you hit 6 knots or so,

Dave
Yeah, I actually meant to talk to you about this last night. I spent all day Saturday (ran home for a quick shower before our dinner) and a couple hours today sanding. I've got hard paint on the hull, so I don't need to sand it all off. I'm just smoothing out the paint drips, scuffing the surface, and fairing the edges of chips. The rudder needs to be completely stripped, and I'm considering a chemical strip since it's not that much surface area.

I was shocked about the ablative wearing off so fast. Along the waterline the driftwood really does a number on it fast. The rudder paint was not completely worn off - just the points of high turbulence like the edges of the rudder and the level at the bottom of the transom a couple inches below the waterline (note I have a transom-hung rudder). But when I hauled the boat, there was no grass at all - I suspect it can't attach because of the constant scrubbing action of the current.


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Yeah, I actually meant to talk to you about this last night. I spent all day Saturday (ran home for a quick shower before our dinner) and a couple hours today sanding. I've got hard paint on the hull, so I don't need to sand it all off. I'm just smoothing out the paint drips, scuffing the surface, and fairing the edges of chips. The rudder needs to be completely stripped, and I'm considering a chemical strip since it's not that much surface area.

I was shocked about the ablative wearing off so fast. Along the waterline the driftwood really does a number on it fast. The rudder paint was not completely worn off - just the points of high turbulence like the edges of the rudder and the level at the bottom of the transom a couple inches below the waterline (note I have a transom-hung rudder). But when I hauled the boat, there was no grass at all - I suspect it can't attach because of the constant scrubbing action of the current.
Sounds a lot more like ACT or another single season ablative. My buddy with a lobster boat, who fishes it about 65-70 hours per week, uses Micron and gets two seasons out of it with two initial coats, except where the traps hit the hull, but no paint holds up to that. He does wayyyy more than 20 miles/day and fishes 6 days per week and does mooring work on Sundays...

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post #30 of 58 Old 03-27-2011
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Well I can only report what my actual (limited) experience has been in my area. I was actually on my way to WM to buy PCA Gold ablative, but just could not bring myself to pull the trigger given my experience with the rudder. Once I put ablative on, I would need to take it all off if I didn't like it and wanted to go back to back a hard paint. So I'm going to try the Vivid hard paint on top of my current (sanded) hard paint, and if I don't get at least 2 seasons out of it I'll sand it smooth again and try an ablative next time.

I'm just putting it out there since my experience represents a different sailing range than others have reported.


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