Fixing split teak

Outrageous · #1 (**permalink**) 03-28-2011

The engine compartment on my Pearson 32 has a sliding front panel under the ladder, held in place by two slotted boards. One of the slots has a crack shown in the photos. The wood piece is 1/2" thick, but is only 1/4" thick where the slot indentation passes. I'm betting glue won't do it, but I don't want to do a fix which is sloppy aesthetically, and I'd like something strong. A thin set of small head nails might fit, but should they be a special metal to prevent rust stains, and would they be strong enough? Other ideas?

LandLocked66c · #2 (**permalink**) 03-28-2011

Epoxy? I've used some leftover West System to glue some dinner chairs in the house, it holds up very well with my 260lbs.!

turbulicity · #3 (**permalink**) 03-28-2011

Sand, clean, epoxy and clamp. Exopy, if applied properly, will bond stronger than the wood itself.

jrd22 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-28-2011

Epoxy will work if you get the teak clean (acetone) before applying it, but I think I would add a couple of small stainless screws near the top to add some strength to a very vulnerable spot. Countersink the screw heads and cover with teak plugs.

Minnewaska · #5 (**permalink**) 03-28-2011

Good advice above already. Forget the nails, they would be useless.

Outrageous · #6 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011

I'm on it. It broke all the way off today, so acetone, epoxy and a couple of small screws maybe.

LandLocked66c · #7 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011

Good luck, lets see some after pics when completed!

Minnewaska · #8 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Outrageous

I'm on it. It broke all the way off today, so acetone, epoxy and a couple of small screws maybe.

Just as well. You will probably have better epoxy adhesion to the entire surface, rather than trying to inject it. I would have considered pulling it off anyway.

Good luck.

sidmon · #9 (**permalink**) 04-02-2011

"and a couple of small screws maybe"

Or small bronze nails sunk a little bit with some filler over...never know they are there.

Sabreman · #10 (**permalink**) 04-03-2011

No screws necessary. Use moderate clamping pressure, just enough to hold the two pieces together. Do not glue-starve the repair. Use clamping cauls to keep the two pieces level with each other. To reduce your work after the repair, use blue masking tape to cover the wood immediately next to the repair on each piece, on each side (about 1/16" from the edge). When done, do not try to sand the excess epoxy (the heat will soften the epoxy and gum the sandpaper) that will inevitably ooze out. Use a cabinet scraper - it's faster and gives a much cleaner finish. Light sandpaper (220 grit) after that.
I've done this repair many times on many projects with no joint failure.