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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #31  
Old 03-29-2011
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Refrigeration could become a significant electrical load, particularly if you make it to the Bahamas or some other warm area.

The cheapest solution is probably a thermoelectric (Peltier effect) cooler, which is basically a picnic cooler with a solid state cooling module and fan. The problem with this solution is that the cooled volume is low and you'll be lucky to get the interior 40 degrees (F) cooler than ambient. If your cabin gets to 100 degrees, your beer will be at 60 degrees (maybe).

We used a Coleman thermoelectric cooler many years ago on a small powerboat, but only for a weekend or two and otherwise for day trips. It was marginal.

Assuming you have a reasonably well-insulated icebox, you might consider retrofitting a cold plate driven by a 12V compressor if your budget allows. You can go with air cooling (like your home refrigerator) or sea water cooling. If your icebox is close to your sink, sea water cooling can be obtained by replacing your galley sink drain thru-hull fitting with one that contains a heat exchanger. Otherwise, the typical air cooled option has the compressor in a lazarette, warming up whatever you've stowed there.

When we got our cruising sailboat, we used ice for several years before back fitting an Isotherm unit with a sea water heat exchanger. We didn't have much choice, since our icebox was up forward near the mast and air cooling was not a viable option. This unit has served us well in our New England cruising grounds.
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  #32  
Old 03-29-2011
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My boat had a pressurized alcohol cooktop when I got it. The first time I used it I almost caught the curtains on fire. The cookmate (same as Origo) will go 3-5 meals for 2 on a fill, and is very easy to refil if needed. It seems much safer.

Keep in mind the added costs of propane, if you are leaning that way. In my case the cost of all the extras (tank, hose, regulator, solenoid, sniffer ect) exceded the cost of the original appliance by a large margin. If you have other needs for it like a heater or would like to T off the main tank for a BBQ it might be worth it all, but on a small boat it can get to be too much stuff.

The cooktops can be gimbaled, just ask how often you will cooking at sea. I have some pot holders (you can see the mount to the left in my picture) that work OK at anchor.

A final thought, it looks like you are planning to spend time in the tropics. Doing much cooking inside a small boat in that heat and humidity can be a bit much. Although I live in the anit-tropics (puget sound) cooking inside on a hot day is no fun, and an oven would make it worse. Lots of salads and the BBQ on the stern rail is a nice way to go. I use the 1 lb spin on tanks for the BBQ.

Share a picture or two of your boat when you get it fixed up. Mine has the orignal 40 year old green and blue fabric, the 70's were not so bad!
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  #33  
Old 03-29-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erps View Post
if the tank valve is turned off it will show a drop in pressure. If the tank valve is turned on, it could drain most of the tank before it shows much of a drop in pressure. At least that's the way I understand it.
Ray, you may well be right. Must do some more homework on this but as we do turn off the gas after use I'm not overly worried. I'd really just like to know the real situation. I'd much rather be wrong now than scattered about the anchorage at a later date.
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Old 03-29-2011
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When I purchased my boat it had a 2 burner pressurized alcohol stove. Having had one before i sold it without lighting it. The galley was similar to yours. I now have the Force 10 3 burner with oven and it is gimbaled. But to swing a stove that weighs that much with oven you need to attach it well. I glassed in 2 bulkheads and also moved the sink closer to the center. Below is a before pic followed by 3 in progress. All the wood is covered by white laminate and oak trim.
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Alcohol to LPG-5.jpg   Alcohol to LPG-6.jpg   Alcohol to LPG-7.jpg   Alcohol to LPG-8.jpg   Alcohol to LPG-9.jpg  

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  #35  
Old 03-29-2011
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The thermoelectric (peltier) fridges are pretty useless for more than weekending. Not only do they only cool 40 degrees lower than ambient, they use 4 amps continually and do not have a thermostat. The best solution I have found is an Engel. Swing arm compressor with one moving part, fridge/freezer or fridge alone depending on setting. Less than 1 amp on fridge, less than 2 amps as a freezer. More expensive but still less than converting an icebox with a compressor etc.
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Thanks for the info, I will be considering what you did as well, I really like that. Considering I have fiberglass experience so it would not be a big problem I figure I wouldn't have to go as extensive as you did but would defiantly glass in some bulkheads and brace the box better considering I would be looking at a minimum of 70 lbs. Very nice work though that is great. I live in florida doing anything inside a closed up boat is miserable so that would not change to much lol I plan to carry a small honda gen to run a small ac when stoped on the hook or just open up the boat or as I most always do cook on the grill off the stern. Thanks again for the info that install looks great do you have a photo of the finished unit?
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  #37  
Old 03-29-2011
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I can't find one. It still needs some trim and I'll post a pic when it is done.
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Ok sounds good.
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  #39  
Old 03-31-2011
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Hey mitiempo I was wondering what kind of wood is that you are using?
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Old 03-31-2011
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The 2 bulkheads flanking the stove position are Hydro-Tek marine ply. Made from a mahogany (meranti) and are 3/4" 13 ply without voids. Good stuff to work with. The door accessing the engine compartment is Baltic Birch, epoxy sealed and the laminate is put on the visible face with epoxy.
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