Replacing seacoks + how to grind down old fiberglass around old gate valves. - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 23 Old 04-04-2011
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Yikes!! Cal models of that era weren't perfect by any means (my Cal 2-27 has ball-valves on bronze thru-hull fittings, no proper seacocks); but the installation in those pics looks down-right scary. This is the sort of thing that gave Catalina the rep they now "enjoy". They may have improved their building methods over the past several decades, but it just takes one shiver-inducing look at something like the installations in this thread to make folks think twice about buying a Catalina, old or new.

Catalina fans may now start with their retorts.

Never forget them. Do something to prevent it from happening again.
Charlotte Bacon, Daniel Barden, Rachel Davino, Olivia Josephine Gay, Ana M. Marquez-Greene, Dylan Hockley, Dawn Hochsprung, Madeleine F. Hsu, Catherine V. Hubbard, Chase Kowalski, Jesse Lewis, James Mattioli , Grace McDonnell, Anne Marie Murphy, Emilie Parker, Jack Pinto, Noah Pozner, Caroline Previdi, Jessica Rekos, Avielle Richman, Lauren Rousseau, Mary Sherlach, Victoria Soto, Benjamin Wheeler, Allison N. Wyatt

Last edited by SlowButSteady; 04-05-2011 at 12:18 PM.
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post #12 of 23 Old 04-14-2011 Thread Starter
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So I went with the hole saw around the outside of the nipple, then cut with a sawsall and it worked like a dream. Not nearly as bad as I expected. I was then able to grind down the remains of the resin volcano and create a level area for the backing plate.

I have one more quick question. I now know that my hull is approx. 1/2" thick. This means that when I add the 3/4" backing plate, I still have 1" of thru-hull left. My ball valve can only receive 5/8" of the remaining thru-hull so that leaves me with two options.

1) trim the thru-hull so that it can be tightened flush to the backing plate
or
2) use the locking nut, then mount the ball valve above that.

I included two pics below for info

MobileMe Gallery

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post #13 of 23 Old 04-14-2011
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I strongly encourage you and anyone else reading this to read the following:

Seacock & Thru-Hull Primer/Pre Information Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

I will be doing one of these myself, as soon as the rest of the parts arrive.

- Bill T.
- Richmond, VA

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
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post #14 of 23 Old 04-14-2011
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Trim the through hull and bolt the flange to the hull, countersunk on the outside.
Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Brian
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post #15 of 23 Old 04-14-2011
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Here is one that I did;

B4:


After;
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post #16 of 23 Old 04-14-2011
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Exactly. Looks good and a huge improvement. If you don't want to drill 3 more holes in the hull for the bolts here is an alternative way.
Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Brian
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post #17 of 23 Old 05-05-2011
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Mariner 28

[You know I love this forum for the wealth of info, but searching for help sure is tough.]

Found this thread and thought it was a good place to put mine. I have a 1978 Mariner with one Great Lakes sailing season under my belt with her. Did what I needed last summer to get sailing. Now the next level of stuff.

I need to replace the gate valve on my raw water intake for the engine. I've read this thread, and will read the suggested articles over on pbase.com.

1). Any comments/suggestions/etc. would be beneficial.
2). How long of a process is this? Couple hours? Two full days?
3). Should I just totally remove everything down to the hull (or the built-up area) and install a new seacock, or fully remove the thru hull and start from fresh? Not sure if I'll find NPS threads or not, etc.
4). Pitfalls to watch out for?

Thanks





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post #18 of 23 Old 05-05-2011
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I'd remove everything including the through hull and start from scratch. It won't take a lot of hours but you do have to give the epoxy time to set hard. A fiberglass backing block is best, with thickened epoxy holding it to the hull and filling any irregularities.

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post #19 of 23 Old 05-05-2011
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Thanks Brian.
Looking at defender.com, there are a lot of thru hulls to choose from. Any recommendations?
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post #20 of 23 Old 05-05-2011
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