Anchor wash down system

CapnRon47 · #1 (**permalink**) 04-08-2011

Just came back from a two day raft up and overnight in a nearby creek. When I pulled the chain and anchor they were coated with some foul smelling mud. Since I don't currently have a wash down pump I had to do the best I could by dipping ever thing up and down as I brought it up, but it still made a mess of the anchor locker and the whole front of the boat. I really would like to have a wash down system, but I don't want to add another thru hull to feed it. What do people have and what do they suggest?

thanks,

Ron

chrisncate · #2 (**permalink**) 04-08-2011

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CapnRon47 · #3 (**permalink**) 04-08-2011

By T-off do you mean a y-valve that I would switch on way or the other or a literal T? There may not be room for a y-valve where the head intake is, but a T would certainly fit. The question is if I have a T would it pump water from the head instead of the outside or is there enough pressure from that thru hull (not sure how far below the water line it is) to feed the pump. If there is then I could mount an electric wash down pump somewhere forward of that. Something like a Jabsco Electric Galley Pump - 12v

That would have to be easier than a manual foot pump and it seems they are both overpriced err.... almost the same price!

chrisncate · #4 (**permalink**) 04-08-2011

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CapnRon47 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-08-2011

ok, I can envision a T fitting at the intake. Would I then want an on-off valve between the T and the head? So to use the wash down pump I open the intake and shut off the part of the T to the head, so it only draws from the outside. When I want to use the head I open the intake and open that shut off so the head draws the water from the outside. The pump is not running so it would not draw any water so I am not sure I would need a shut off on that side.

Unless you have a combination T fitting and dual on and off shut off's (like on a garden hose T fitting, not sure I would use that on a boat unless it is marine grade!).

Ron

chrisncate · #6 (**permalink**) 04-08-2011

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chef2sail · #7 (**permalink**) 04-08-2011

I am not a big fan of that kind of "T" for safety sake. I placed a three way bronze ball valve off of the head intake thru hull and led one of the lines forward to a washdown pump I installed in our very large anchor locker. We use maily fresh water in our head so I only use the thru hull rarely except for wash down. Most of the time the thru hull is actually closed for safety.

Before I go forward to pull the anchor I open the way for the water to flow to the washdown pump. There are some fairly inexpensive pumps with hose and quick fit combos available that lets you instal the pump in different configurations depending on your anchor locker set up.

When raising the anchor ( we have a mechanical windlass which I prefer), but works well with electrical ones also you can wash off the muck from the rode, chain, and anchor with one handas itt is comming out of the water so as not to get muck, mud on the deck or worse smelling up your anchor locker and boat as the muck decays.

Easy set up to install.

Dave

Gladrags1 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011

I have T'd off of my head's sink drain for my washdown pump water supply. I installed it below the waterline and double clamped each hose. I then reduce the hose so it fits the size required for the washdown pump, run it through a strainer before connecting to the pump under the head sink. it works well.

Tod

Minnewaska · #9 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011

The T idea is clever, but I would substantially prefer a new thru-hull. Not sure what is driving the reluctance, maybe we can help with that. If you need to winterize, the extra length from the head will have to be filled with anti-freeze and having to keep track of the valve configuration, sounds like an additional pain. If in the wrong position when operating either the washdown pump or head, I have to wonder if you start blowing fuses or stressing gaskets or diaphragms.

I do highly recommend a washdown pump, for exactly the reason you describe. One tip is to have a self coiling hose for easy storage and a spray head that can be turned on and off with one hand, not the twist style. Straight water from a hose doesn't have the pressure to knock stuff off, you need a spray head. Also, get the highest pressure pump you can afford or fit. I think they are around a couple hundred bucks.

edit: one more tip. Be sure to have a separate breaker on the panel for it, so that you know it isn't powered unless intending to use it.

lancelot9898 · #10 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minnewaska

Also, get the highest pressure pump you can afford or fit. I think they are around a couple hundred bucks.

edit: one more tip. Be sure to have a separate breaker on the panel for it, so that you know it isn't powered unless intending to use it.

I'm using the Blaster by Shur Flo. It's anything but a blaster, but my setup has it pumping at a pretty high head and also maybe there are some barnicles on the thur hull limiting the flowrate. I also have a switch to turn on and off and it's not wired to a dedicated breaker.