Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items









Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 



Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 866
Rep Power: 2
MarkSF is on a distinguished road
Is my alternator dead? Where can I buy 5424 spares?

I suspected my alternator is dead, so today I tried this :

Check voltage when A/C charger is on : 13V
Disconnect charger : drops to 12.7V
Turned on all lights, radio, etc. for 10 minutes - dropped to 12.4V.

So far so good, I think. A/C charger is doing it's job, batteries can store some charge.

Then I started the engine, and the voltage stayed the same. 12.4 on both sets, regardless of whether the switch is set to 1,2, or both. Shouldn't it go up to 13.5-14V on the batteries connected to the engine?

So I think the alternator is dead. Where can I buy one for my Universal 5424? I'd like to get some other spares too like an impellor.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 830
Rep Power: 9
capttb is on a distinguished road
Did you only run the engine at idle ? Most alternators have a "turn on speed" they don't produce till they reach a set minimum RPM, sometimes 1200-1500 rpm. They can/will have a "cut-in" speed also which is the minimum speed at which power is produced once turn-on speed has been reached. Anyway, try running the engine faster before buying a new alternator.
__________________
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for lunch, Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the decision."
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 866
Rep Power: 2
MarkSF is on a distinguished road
Thanks, think I'll try my DVM directly on the batteries too, rather than trust the old gauge in the boat.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011
CalebD's Avatar
Tartan 27' owner
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 2,748
Rep Power: 5
CalebD will become famous soon enough
Keep in mind that your alternator could have fried diodes on the output side. The alt. makes an alternating current (AC) that uses diodes to create a DC charge and if the diodes fry or fail then no current at all.
It is easy enough to remove the alt. from your engine and take it to a alternator/motor repair shop to get a check up or overhauled.
Check the numbers with your DVM first but replacing the diodes should be a good bit cheaper then buying a new unit, if the diodes are done.
__________________
"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011
LakeSuperiorGeezer's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 551
Rep Power: 2
LakeSuperiorGeezer is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
Keep in mind that your alternator could have fried diodes on the output side. The alt. makes an alternating current (AC) that uses diodes to create a DC charge and if the diodes fry or fail then no current at all.
It is easy enough to remove the alt. from your engine and take it to a alternator/motor repair shop to get a check up or overhauled.
Check the numbers with your DVM first but replacing the diodes should be a good bit cheaper then buying a new unit, if the diodes are done.
I agree, have it checked; some automotive parts stores will even do it for free. Have it rebuilt; they are sometimes rebuilt better than new. Maybe you can ask around about who does a good job. Many times alternators have a fuse to protect against putting the battery in backwards. Sometimes this is just a length of wire. Without a fuse, if the battery posts are switched positive to negative, the diodes are like a dead short and burn out very quickly. Put your voltmeter on the larger wire going to the alternator and the other end of the meter to ground. You should get about 12 volts. If none, check for blown fuse. If the diodes suffered reverse polarity without a fuse, you will still have 12 volts. Also see if the small wire at the alternator has 12 volts. I am not sure, but believe there is an excitation voltage needed to make it work even if there is a built in voltage regulator in the alternator. Do not disconnect alternator from battery while running the engine or it will damage the alternator.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 04-16-2011 at 11:13 PM.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011
celenoglu's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 466
Rep Power: 4
celenoglu is on a distinguished road
The brushes ofthe rotor might be finished. An alternator is not easy to destroy completely. It can easily be repaired.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 830
Rep Power: 9
capttb is on a distinguished road
Quote:
I am not sure, but believe there is an excitation voltage needed to make it work even if there is a built in voltage regulator in the alternator.
You are correct, one of the diodes is a Zenier diode which turns output on when voltage drops and off when it reaches target voltage.
__________________
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for lunch, Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the decision."
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011
speciald's Avatar
Special Delivery
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: live on boat
Posts: 658
Rep Power: 6
speciald is on a distinguished road
Send a message via Skype™ to speciald
Number of things could be bad - no exitation current - check for fuse in circuit, bad regulator, blown diodes, shorted windings. Take it to an automotive alternator repair shop for testing. I have had to replace the core on multiple Balmar alternators over the years - not cheap, but cheaper than buying a new one.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011
JimsCAL's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Glen Cove, NY
Posts: 1,676
Rep Power: 6
JimsCAL is on a distinguished road
Here's a source for a new one.

New Motorola, Leece Neville 12v 51 Amp Alternator: Alternators &amp Alternator
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
M 5424 diesel 3 cyl for sale jefframage C320 10 04-25-2011 12:39 PM
Yanmar spares kit good idea? batkins61 Diesel Engine Forum 9 04-07-2011 09:47 AM
List of Spares davidpm Boat Review and Purchase Forum 2 02-07-2010 08:28 AM
spares and extra gear BarryL Gear & Maintenance 1 04-28-2009 02:43 PM
How many drive train spares? Jim H Cruising & Liveaboard Forum 8 11-02-2008 11:03 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:20 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012