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  #11  
Old 04-18-2011
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True

very, very fine sawdust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
Wood flour is essentially sawdust.
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I would use Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer or CPES for the first treatment. You could then coat over that with MAS Low Viscosity. I use MAS because the ratio is a simple 2:1 and it's a very good product. I use sawdust for a thickener on wood applications and silica for everything else.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
I recently potted the chainplate holes for the shrouds. I used straight epoxy (MAS Low Viscosity Resin + Fast Hardener). My thought was that it must have a higher compressive modulus than either balsa, or marine-ply, but could not find any thing to support, or refute this.

Can anyone out there tell me if I did well, or screwed up?
Not a problem as a barrier coat, but if you are potting a hole tha tyou will wna tto drill through, straight epoxy is somewhat brittle and doesw not drill cleanly. IfIf you make up a mixture of epoxy/collodial silica to peanut butter consistency, it is very easy to form, wont run much, and drills cleanly (but is a bear to sand...).
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Old 04-18-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyt View Post

edit as we all know MAS epoxy is good stuff but here is one of their filler, read what it is made of

MAS Epoxies Wood Flour
Yes, wood flour is exactly what it sounds like, powdered wood or very, very fine sawdust. It is used a lot on small wooden boat building by professional builders and it is very good for what it is used for, typically for fillets which round the inside corners where two pieces of wood come together. It is completely mixed into the epoxy, so I do not see how it would absorb water as each speck of dust is encapsulated in epoxy. Typically fillets are then glassed over with cloth and more epoxy. Wood flour also has the added aesthetic benefit of matching (at least closely) the color of the wood around it which is much nicer when clear coating over the area then using a white filler.
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Whatever filler you use; mix the epoxy components first THEN add the filler.
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Old 04-19-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingfool View Post
Not a problem as a barrier coat, but if you are potting a hole tha tyou will wna tto drill through, straight epoxy is somewhat brittle and doesw not drill cleanly. IfIf you make up a mixture of epoxy/collodial silica to peanut butter consistency, it is very easy to form, wont run much, and drills cleanly (but is a bear to sand...).
Thank you SF...

I drilled the holes, chamfered the edges, and bedded the chainplates with butyl tape yesterday. Drilling the holes was not a problem. The cuttings came out of the drill hole, and off the drill as a long spiral of epoxy.

I also replaced another through hull yesterday. This one was a 1˝" for the sink drain. Initially, the through hull has a ˝" marine-ply backing plate, and just a nut (and gobs of 5200) holding it in place. I was concerned because the bottom paint around this fitting looked as if the hull had flexed (lots of little cracks in the paint & flaked off easily).

I cut a 6"circle with a 2" hole (it looks like a green donut) of G10, and bedded this in MAS Filleting Laminating And Gluing (FLAG) Epoxy (2oz.), mixed with FAST Hardener (1oz.), and then added 2oz each of Cabosil and West 403 microfibers. I sanded the bottom of the G10 with 80 grit, and then wiped the bottom of it with dewaxer. I sanded the inside of the hull (after removing the plywood backer) and wiped it down with dewaxer. I mixed the epoxy and filler until I had very dry peanut butter, and slathered it on the backing plate. The mix makes a nice fillet. I put the through hull mushroom on the outside, and let it set. I'll finish up this morning.
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