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  #31  
Old 12-07-2011
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mgiguere, it sounds interesting and something I might consider for the toe rails. I use Teak Guard in the cockpit but don't bother on the rails since it will wash out fairly quickly. How well does Cabots clean up if you get it on the gel coat? How well does it last on the toe rails?
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  #32  
Old 12-07-2011
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Here are some pics of a 10 year old (!!!!) Honey Teak Job.

HT is a 2 part + 2 part that needs a fast 'maintenance clear coat' every 2 years.
HT is quite expensive and has a very high 'learning curve', it must be applied 'thick' or you can get UV damage and lifting. I flat-sand (2000 grit) and Powerbuff with a knobby foam pad and 3M Perfect-it about every other 2 years .... just how like you 'finish' a prime varnish job. Maintenance 'clear' coats are applied over a 'scuffed' (3M purple pad) surface. Id rather be sailing than being a slave to 'varnish'.
The decks are coated with SEMCO; the polished bronze is coated with HT clear.

Ive tried them 'all' over the years .... Cetol - eventually cracks, varnish - poor UV, multi-coat varnish systems with Interlux 'on top', Bristol - too fragile, 'resinated' oil - lasts a year then oxidizes and goes 'dark'. Although HT is the most expensive it amortizes over the years to be the absolute 'cheapest' because its so long lasting .... and my time is worth a lot.
Honey Teak ... www.signaturefinish.com




Last edited by RichH; 12-07-2011 at 10:32 AM.
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  #33  
Old 04-20-2012
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

Anyone else have negative or positive thoughts about Cetol?
I welcome emails as well.
I live in New England and just bought an old Quickstep.
The varnished areas are shot and I plan to use a varnish remover and sand these down
to bare wood and then add Cetol. Open to another product.
Also curious about Zip Strip vs Circa 1850 Heavy Body vs 5F5 stripper.
Thanks,
David
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Old 04-20-2012
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

I had Cetol and disliked it very much. Cost me a grand to have it removed. Fake looking, flaked off, made a huge mess. Others disagree.

I like real varnish when exposed to water and UV. If you can keep exposure to a minimum, such as a cockpit with Bimini, I like the durability and ease of Bristol Finish.
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  #35  
Old 04-20-2012
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

Depends upon the application. Cetol Natural (used to be Armada before Sikkens bought the company) is probably the best color of the Sikkens line-up. The original is very orangy and the light has too little UV protection. We had been using Original Cetol with clear gloss Cetol on top which provides a hard, clear coat on top of Cetol Original which is kind of soft. We used that combination as we have a lot of teak and we don't want to redo it all. The gloss flakes off of the Original but the Original alone is too soft and wears away too easily.

We are now using Semco Goldtone and like it much better. It is thin and soaks in to the teak where Cetol sits on top. It seems to me that the teak will be protected better if the sealer soaks in to the wood. We are more pleased with the color of the wood but don't know how it will last. We need to put 4 coats on but since it goes on easily, that is no problem.

My thoughts are always on "what happens when the sealer or treatment needs to be reapplied?" My perception with Cetol is that it has to be sanded off, similar to varnish when it starts to degrade. Now it is EASIER to sand off than varnish but still... From my understanding, there is NO need for sanding Semco off. Time will tell but so far I am more pleased with Semco Goldtone (second highest UV protection in Semco color line up).
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Last edited by Gladrags1; 04-20-2012 at 05:21 PM. Reason: clarification.
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Old 07-03-2012
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

On my Precision 185 all I have to redo is my tiller - suits my lazy lifestyle.
What should I use to recoat the tiller? Polyurethane, cetol, varnish?
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Old 07-05-2012
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

I was introduced to Sikkens by a motor yacht owner across the dock from my winter slip and we very much like the durable look of the finish in my compass box. Have now bought the quart of Natural Sikkens (We have mahogany, not teak) but have yet to crack the seal. Plan is to do it for all exterior wood.

Straight oil outside does not last so you need to do it frequently, which is okay if you have time, and if it didn't make a mess when it gets on the adjacent parts of the boat and dries there.

I am not sure how the Sikkens holds up under hand (and I won't find out unless I make me a nice wood tiller in my copious spare time). Inside it lloks good, but the mahogany cover on my stove scratches easily... I'll see in the next few weeks if oiling deals with the scratches and mellows nicely over time.
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  #38  
Old 07-06-2012
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

Okay..question for the gallery..I have literally a ton of teak work ahead of me on a 40-foot boat...coamings, drop-boards, toe-rails,dinette table,etc etc...If I do go to all the trouble of sanding and more sanding and then laying on maybe seven..yes,seven coats of a good Captain's varnish...yeah...I have heard 8 coats is better...yeah..well..question for someone who is hardcore and been there done that...how long is it going to be before I have to sand and re-coat? i have heard that UV will take out one or two coats per year..I live in SW Florida... so that is probably a certainly that 2 coats will have to be re-applied every year.....or maybe one coat every six months..maybe..I hear so many different approaches..but the hell if I am paying 50 bucks for a quart unless the company rep is coming out to lay it on...

Last edited by souljour2000; 07-06-2012 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 07-06-2012
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

Having had plenty of boats with brightwork to maintain over the years, my theory is now not LOW maintenance but NO maintenance when it comes to teak. I rub a coat of Tung oil on it about once a year and happily watch it get gray. I like gray. It matches my hair which got that way in part fretting about what someone might think of my teak.
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Re: Teak Oil vs Varnish vs Cetol

I'm retreating too. Cockpit coaming and table are now the only brightwork on my boat. First year. I'm pretty happy with it. I'm focusing on cleaners now, more than finishes.
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