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post #11 of 12 Old 05-14-2011
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Then again you could use aluminum Rivnuts. They install like a pop rivet using a threaded mandrel. Then you use a stainless bolt. Corrosion problem, stripped thread? Drill off the head of the rivnut and push it through, install another. I've used thousands of them in fiberglass too. The holding power of a rivet in thin metal with the convenience of threads, the best of both worlds.

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post #12 of 12 Old 05-14-2011 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by knothead View Post
There is no problem drilling and tapping when the fasteners are subject to shear loads, but rivets are stronger if the fitting is being pulled away from the spar as they would be in flag halyards for example.
I found this over on wikipedia, and I'm trying to determine if it's the same as what Knothead is saying:
rivet, it can support tension loads (loads parallel to the axis of the shaft); however, it is much more capable of supporting shear loads (loads perpendicular to the axis of the shaft). Bolts and screws are better suited for tension applications.

Knothead "There is no problem drilling at tapping" -- which to me say installing something with threads (screw or bolt) -- "ok for shear" --which to me is what wikipedia is saying is lateral pull, not trying to pull the rivet straight out of its hole.


But then Knothead continues: "but rivets are stronger if the fitting is being pulled away from the spar as they would be in flag halyards for example" -- which to me says being pulled straight out if its hole.

Conclusion? Knothead is saying the reverse? (Maybe it's late in the night after spending all day buffing the freeboard for launch on Tuesday.)
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