Coronado 25 restore--through hulls - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 39 Old 05-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Coronado 25 restore--through hulls

I have a 70's 25ft Coronado that I have finally hauled out and am working to restore. My biggest problem has been my cockpit drain failing, and my cockpit filling with water during the rainy season. Below deck, the valve for the drain is completely corroded and seized up. Also, the boat came with a head that no longer worked, so I removed it. Only problem is that the waste-out through-hull is a total mess of fiberglass and I wasn't able to cleanly cap or plug it. This is the first boat that I have had and I don't know much about through-hulls, but looking at the ones that are installed on my boat, they seem unique at best. I was under the impression that most through-hulls were backed on both sides and sandwiched the hull, but now that I have a good look at the bottom, they appear to just be pipes that are glassed right into the hull. Right now I have a port-a-potty onboard, and my original intention was to just glass over those through-hulls in an attempt to minimize possible failures, but people have been trying to talk me out of that, saying that it is better not to limit future options.

Basically, I want to make the boat as simple and worry-free as possible, and I don't trust the most of the hardware that is on there at the moment. What should I do? Glass over any unnecessary holes? Should I cut out whatever is going on and then install new through-hulls and just place a closed seacock on any that I am not currently using? Any advice or experience with these boats would be appreciated! Also, any recommended sources for this hardware?

Top photo is the interior, where the head used to be
Second is the larger through-hull from the outside
Then, the drain directly below the cockpit
And finally, where that drain meets the bottom of the hull
Attached Thumbnails
ThroughHullsSmall-2.jpg   ThroughHullsSmall-1.jpg   ThroughHullsSmall-3.jpg   ThroughHullsSmall-4.jpg  

Last edited by harraik; 05-15-2011 at 03:53 AM.
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post #2 of 39 Old 05-15-2011
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We have a Coronado 25 and have capped the head. If you wish to keep this open, install a large gate valve, otherwise remove the head pip and treat with a circular patch.

Replace the fittings you want by cutting them out and replacing with slightly larger fittings.

Good luck, and let us know how your repairs progress.

From looking at the cockpit drain photo, there should be enough room to put on a new stainless steel clamp and hose.
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post #3 of 39 Old 05-15-2011
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I see some time with a grinder/zip cutter in your future.... and good for you including those pics.

The head fittings need to be completely replaced, or, if you prefer, removed and glassed over. Doing so does not preclude changing your mind later on and adding them again if you choose to (perhaps in better locations) If you're content with a portapotty then that's max peace of mind.

As to the cockpit drain, it looks like access is going to be a bit of an issue but obviously that/they need replacement. You might want to investigate cutting out the molded scupper that the hose is (sorta) clamped to and put a larger fitting in there for more efficient drainage.. sitting at home worrying about your cockpit filling up on a rainy night is not much for peace of mind.

BTW do NOT use gate valves - ball valves with proper fittings or true seacocks would be best. Make sure there's actually room to swing the shutoff handle when it's in place.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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post #4 of 39 Old 05-15-2011
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As for keeping the head thur hull , are you ever going to be using the head more then 3 miles out to sea where you can discharge the waste overboard. I would say the thur hull is a thing of the past. even if you use the head with a holding tank you do not need a discharge thur hull for it.

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post #5 of 39 Old 05-15-2011
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Faster is correct. Do not use gate valves - they have no proper place on a boat. A good ball valve like those made by Groco is best.
With the condition of your through hulls for the head the best solution would be to properly glass them over whether you are installing new ones or not. The cockpit drains might be enlarged with a proper drain fitting in the cockpit well and ideally flanged adapters and ball valves as shown here:Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

For glassing in the head through hull openings here's a how-to:Northern Yacht Restoration |

Here is a good source for the valves and flanged adapters: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com

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post #6 of 39 Old 05-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Really appreciate all the help!

It sounds to me like the way to go is to eliminate the head fittings by glassing, and to remove, expand, and properly fit a new drainage system, and I will make sure to get good ball-valves or seacocks.

I am mostly sailing in the Columbia River, and there is no chance that I could legal pump overboard, and I have very little interest in setting up a holding tank system. My original idea was just to glass over, but someone had talked me out of it--sounds like my original idea is the winner.

One more question: that mess of fiberglass around the inside of the head--does that entire area need to be cut out and re-glassed? I can't tell if that was a previous repair (possibly a poorly executed one) or if it is a sort of fiberglass backer to flatten out that area. To me it kind of looks like they actually just glassed in a pipe and there is nothing supporting it

Helen: I am trying to do this project on a tight schedule, and I am posting daily updates to my twitter account @harraik if you want to follow along. I will definitely post an update here when it is all done as well.

I need to go invest in a grinder. Any favorite models for this type of work?

Really appreciate all the help!

Very helpful links Mitiempio--hopefully that article and my copy of Don Casey's sailboat maintanence manual will get me through the process.

Last edited by harraik; 05-15-2011 at 02:09 PM.
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post #7 of 39 Old 05-15-2011
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You should be able to find a good grinder for $20 or $30 at a tool discounter.

I'd grind the lumpy area out to get back to the hull on the inside. Then grind a good taper both inside and outside. Tape the outside and fill the area of the hole with thickened epoxy. When that sets glass a couple of layers of biaxial cloth on the inside and 2 or 3 layers on the outside until level with the hull surface. Fair with thickened epoxy and you are ready for bottom paint.

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post #8 of 39 Old 05-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Fantastic, Brian. Thanks a lot for the advice, I'll post some photos of my progress.
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post #9 of 39 Old 05-15-2011
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Regional nomenclature is interesting. When we say "gate valves" we mean the ball type. Excellent that folks clarified that.

I am way too old to learn how to Twitter. I can barely cheep! However, we will keep checking here for your updates and photos.
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post #10 of 39 Old 05-16-2011 Thread Starter
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Glassing over the head area only leaves me with two necessary through-hulls--the drain for the cockpit and the drain for the sink. Any reason I shouldn't relocate those above the waterline? In the spirit of maximizing peace of mind...
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