Prepping topsides for Interlux Perfection - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 28 Old 05-22-2011
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Whoa.
Grinders are grinders, sanders are sanders. Never ask one to do the other's job.

50 grit is for metalwork. you shouldn't be touching your hull above the bootstripe with anything more aggressive than 80 grit, in my opinion. Why pull off all of the old paint? You are just creating MANY more hours of additional labour and additional material cost to bring the hull back to fair. All you need is a fair surface with some tooth to grip the primer you are going to apply. If the existing paint is THAT hard to get off, then it's not like you have to worry about it peeling off, so use it as your substrate, don't try to sand it all off.
Get it fair, lay on a coat of Pre-kote, then a coat of Prime-Kote, then your finish, with the appropriate wet sanding along the way.

It's 5 o'clock somewhere:


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post #12 of 28 Old 05-22-2011
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Do not waste your time with the safe stuff just work FAST














545 epoxy primer







If you don't get off all the old paint the two part will FAIL

Nothing was not gonna get my boat all that fair and its unlikely he is gonna cut you much slack either

At some point your gonna find fairing pointless when you realize how long its gonna take to fill the 17000 nicks 40 years put in the hull

Its looks great just just don't get closer than 10 feet and use the redtree foam rollers

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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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Last edited by tommays; 05-22-2011 at 09:07 PM.
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-23-2011 Thread Starter
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Really appreciate all the input on this topic!

So I read all of your comments, and then went around town yesterday and had some "experts" take a look at it. The general consensus was: I hadn't ruined anything except for the fairness (thank god); that I probably don't need to get rid of the paint if it is putting up that much of a fight, and that the top layer is probably not paint, but actually an old gelcoat; and that I can keep doing it the way that I am, but I am probably creating a lot more work for myself than is necessary.

I also took a few rags soaked in the paint's solvent (interlux 333n) and taped them to the different layers that I had exposed. This was suggested in Don Casey's book to test if they needed removal. They all did fine except for a very thin layer right before the glass. That concerns me a bit, but at the same time, I haven't had any issues with the topcoat flaking--the problem is just that it is in bad condition and has been rubbed through in spots.

I also spread some fairing compound (west systems 410) over the area that I had already taken to the glass, and I built myself a longboard sander last night covered in adhesive 3M 100grit imperial. So I am going to test that today and see how much work it really is for me to fair it to a point that I am happy with. My plan of action at this point is to take any real problem areas that I see down to the glass and then fair them back, and just prep the rest with 80-grit. Then, as bljones said: [if it is] THAT hard to get off, then it's not like you have to worry about it peeling off, so use it as your substrate." So then, two coasts of interlux primekote and eventually painting.

If I have a change of heart, I think stripper is my plan B.
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Last edited by harraik; 05-23-2011 at 01:55 PM.
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post #14 of 28 Old 05-23-2011
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"the top layer is probably not paint, but actually an old gelcoat; "
Whoa. If the topcoat was gelcoat, there was no paint on the boat. Glecoat is not paint, and there will be no "paint" under it. Gelcoat is normally sprayed on the inside of a female mold, and then the FRP is laid up directly on the gelcoat. ON the gelcoat, but "inside" if it, from the perspective of the finished boat after the hull and deck have been enclosed or joined up.

Sounds like the 60's joke about the immigrant who makes it good in America and then goes to order a new car to celebrate his good fortune. A fully loaded station wagon with all the trim and options. Comes to the dealership to pick it up, takes a tire iron and rips off all the wood trim, then says to the dealer "I think I liked it better in the packing crate".

Be careful what you attack on that boat, it is always much harder to put it back afterwards.
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-23-2011
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We used orbital sanders for several days to remove previous owners half a$$ed attempt to paint. When we switched to 6 inch DA sanders it finally began to seem like a project that might finish before our arms fell off. Get a DA sander, and work with 100 grit and up. We got good results with Pre Kote, then Brightsides one part polyurethane. My cousin grew up in a boatyard in Sweden so he showed me what to do. We just rolled it on and went over it with the roller many times as it's setting up to smooth it out and get full coverage. It's not as good as a sprayed pro job, but from 5-10 feet away you couldn't tell the difference.
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post #16 of 28 Old 05-23-2011 Thread Starter
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Dbo: did you take it down to the glass?

Hellosailor: it wouldn't make sense that there was paint underneath, but what about other colored materials? From the outside it is a harder glossy white (far right and left of the photo), then a THICK light blue layer (seen just to the right of the bare glass), then thin dark blue, then glass. Here is a photo of the work/damage done. Interested to hear your take on the layers.
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post #17 of 28 Old 05-23-2011
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I was wondering about this same type issue. When you sand the top side or bottom (to bottom paint), you will normally sand down to the gel coat. But over a long period of time, say 40 years or more, will you not sand right through the gel coat? This would be especially easy to do on the bottom as you may bottom paint every year. Say every time you sand the bottom prior to bottom coat you take a nick out of the gel coat. Over 40 years that is a lot of nicks could lead to osmosis problems. On the top side not so big of an issue seing above the water line and does not get painted as much.

What is proper procedure for bottom sanding to prevent this?
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post #18 of 28 Old 05-23-2011
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333 is a mild solvent for singel part paint like Brightside and would most likely not tell you if there is one part paint there

It would seem you defiently going through good gelcoat which will require a lot more coats of primer

My boat was orginaly a two tone gelcoat SO i had green and white sections

On a 29' boat i went through 2-1/2 gallons of MIXED 545 epoxy primer as the boat was thirsty

and ONLY

24 oz Alwgrip paint
12 oz part two
12 oz thinner

Per coat

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post #19 of 28 Old 05-23-2011 Thread Starter
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Tommays: any suggestion to help me identify which layer is which and where I could stop?
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post #20 of 28 Old 05-23-2011
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Oh my.

It's 5 o'clock somewhere:


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