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  #11  
Old 05-28-2011
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Thanks but could you confirm that the distance between your top and bottom marks is quite large compared to the visual diagram of the dipstick marks in the manual, or say a car?

Thanks
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Old 05-28-2011
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No I am not going to confirm that as I had many cars over the years and what you may think a quite a distant is not to me. If I remember correctly the Illustration in the manual is not to scale.
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Old 05-28-2011
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Another thing covered in that mack boring class. The low end of the dipstick on yanmar is the 'enough' mark. Unlike a car it is not the add level. The suggestion in class was to scribe a mark 1/3 of the way from full and make sure the oil level stays above that mark.
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Old 05-28-2011
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your 2gm has only about a 2 quart capacity,if your having problems keeping at the full level you have bigger problems and to your other question,its a small engine pushing a heavy boat any extra load will cause an overload,over proped,dirty bottem or even a extra large alternator when its fully charging,i run my ysb 12 at about 1/2 throttle [no black smoke]and don't get much more significent speed at more,btw your tach may be wrong
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Old 05-29-2011
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Bubb - Sorry if I have gotten your bad side, not sure why you don't want to agree on anything that you seem to agree to.

For everyone else - an update:

Went out for a sail today.

First,- there is a foam air filter, and removing it had no impact on anything.

Second, prop is clear and unfouled, as is the bottom - I dove and checked - beautiful day to swim in Lake Pontchartrain.

The black exhaust water (I am going to stop calling it soot) starts to appear around 2300rpm, and gets progressively more black and less clear water as I go to 3100rpm. 2300rpm is about half throttle (based on the pedestal throttle control range, not the actual throttle arm on the engine, i didn't adjust or check that). I can get to 3100rpm at say 3/4 throttle and from there on engine speed will not go any higher nor does the engine sound any louder. Also, make speed seems to be about 2700rpm - additional engine speed doesn't make us go faster in the water that I can detect.

At 2200rpm I can move the boat around 5.5knots into a 10 knot headwind. That seems like an acceptable speed given the headwind.

Inside the sheltered harbor, I could only get to maybe 6.5 knots top with full engine speed - which is less than hull speed - more engine speed didn't make any difference.

Also I want to clarify that the stuff i am calling soot which is inky black water of varying concentrations in the exhaust, is suspended flaky particulate in the water (I took a sample) it isn't fine particles or liquid.

Also, even when I am at 2200 and the exhaust water is clear, if I take a sample of it there is some suspended particulate.

The amount of force ejecting the exhaust water doesn't seem to change tremendously as the color gets more and more black. This makes me think it isn't "cleaning" residue from the exhaust system, or it would always be the same. But my mechanical understanding of the exhaust system is nearly 0 so maybe I am wrong.

To where we left things yesterday, I am certainly happy with 5.5 knots cruising in a light headwind, as long as running at 2200rpm isn't doing me damage.

And, the biggest thing perhaps, as sawingknots pointed out wisely, is that my tach could be wrong! But, my idle shows about 800 to 900 which seems right. And, would this explain having 1/4 of my throttle travel show no change in engine speed?

I welcome everyones comments. I did not open the elbow yet, and I certainly can, but wanted to share this info first.

Thanks to all.
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Old 05-29-2011
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no problem,i really think you are ok just run it at that speed,btw i have a ysb12 and it does about the same way except i put on an extra large alternater,bad idea,i have to wait until the battery is recharged before the black stops
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You haven't got on my bad side. I am just a cranky old man that has been around boats for more than 50 years. The reason the exhaust gets darker as the engine speed increases is as you are increasing the throttle the more unburnt fuel you are putting though the engine. Do you know when that prop was put on the boat? Did you do a sea trail when you bought the boat? If you did have a sea trial was the engine ran at full throttle for 5 to 10 Min's. When you bought the boat did you have oil analysis done to check for particulates and contaminates in the engine oil including unburnt diesel?
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Last edited by bubb2; 05-29-2011 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 05-29-2011
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You are close to your hull speed at 6.5 knots - hull speed being 6.7 knots for your waterline of 25'.

The correct prop will let you achieve max rpm and ideally no more. If the revs exceed max rpm under power you are under propped. If you cannot hit max rpm you are over propped.

I would check the exhaust elbow in any case. If it hasn't been checked in recent years it could be restricted by carbon. They regularly corrode from the inside as well.

When an engine works too hard it will exhaust unburned fuel.

An accurate tach would help.
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Old 05-29-2011
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i have a 2GM20F. most of the time i run at 2250. this does not hurt the engine, & saves fuel . wide open it will get up to 3600 and 6.9 kn which is hull speed. no soot. if your engine will not go to max rpm your prop has too much pitch.
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copied from another forum

Black Smoke and Exhaust Problems
I am hauling our boat soon and I was wondering about our prop and if it is the correct size for the engine. I say this since the engine will start to blow black smoke once it reaches 2900-3000 RPM. Dave

[JED] This must be corrected, as you are limiting the useful working life of the engine. Possible reasons for black smoke -
  • prop pitch is excessive [engine is overloaded and is running too rich]
  • dirty bottom or prop
  • transmission problem
  • old fuel [very common]
  • kerosene being burned instead of diesel fuel
  • air inlet restriction
  • turbo problem [only for turbo charged engines]
  • engine cannot get enough air while running at high rpm [engine space not properly ventilated]
  • restricted intake or exhaust valves
  • improperly adjusted valves
  • restricted exhaust system
  • injection timing incorrect
  • injector problem
  • low engine compression
  • engine is not reaching correct operating temperature
I would check the simple things first, as in the list above. Did your boat always have this problem, or did it develop suddenly, or gradually?

If your fuel supply [in the boat] is more than 6 months old, and no fuel stabilizer has been added since you filled the tank, it is suspect. Most sailboat fuel tanks contain at least SOME very old [several years] fuel. The tank should be pumped dry, inspected for condition, and fresh fuel [with stabilizer] added. Also change all fuel filters.
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