Attached foot main

[rhsanborn]

Spring is finally here in mid-Michigan and we're putting the boat in for the first time. (We bought it already in the water last year) I have no idea how to tie on the clew. I've attached a few pictures, can anyone point me to a reference on how to tie this on?

[Faster]

There should be some kind of slider on that track on the end of the boom that the mainsail clew attaches too... and some tackle/line that would allow you to adjust the foot tension/outhaul as well.

It looks like an old roller reefing boom setup, and maybe the little fairlead with the capture pin and the eye behind it is meant to be part of the outhaul system?? It's an odd looking setup, though the pics have a rather limited view.

[rhsanborn]

Here are a few more pictures. The first is a wider angle of the clew and the end of the boom. There wasn't a traveller car or anything when I bought it. The other is where the boom attaches to the mast, I don't think it was roller furling.

[Faster]

Yes, well it's not roller reefing anymore if it ever was... the fittings on the aft end of the boom may well have originally also been the mainsheet attachment, but it looks like that's been moved forward and to the bottom of the boom from your second set of pics.

So the clew is attached to a slide, (not the most robust setup I've ever seen, btw) and you have a bit of line there to stretch the foot. As a trial you might lead that aft, through under that pin, around the half round block and tie it off on the cleat you can just see in the first pic of your second post. It's not ideal and will be difficult to adjust, but pull it as tight as you can and see if the sail sets OK. If it looks like that plan might work, up-sizing that bit of line might be an idea.

Most boats in the 25'+ range will have some sort of tackle (2, 3 or 4:1 inside the boom) on the outhaul to make it easier to use and adjust for conditions.

[JimsCAL]

As Faster notes, just use the line attached to the clew to stretch the foot as much as possible. The black cleat on the boom is probably part of the original outhaul. Plan on rigging a proper outhaul at some point.

The block with two sheaves has me a little confused. Why is it leading up? Topping lift appears to be the wire right in front of it.

[bljones]

Originally Posted by rhsanborn

Here are a few more pictures. The first is a wider angle of the clew and the end of the boom. There wasn't a traveller car or anything when I bought it. The other is where the boom attaches to the mast, I don't think it was roller furling.

In the second picture, I see a cleat on the starboard side of the boom. lead your outhaul lines around the open fairlead at the end of the boom (the semicircle piece) and forward to that cleat, and tie off. Something you may want to think about, to make your outhaul more usable, is installing a block on the thimble on the port side of the boom end, and another cleat on the port side to replace the string- and- starboard- cleat system. then you can beef up your outhaul line diameter.

[rhsanborn]

Jim,

Sorry for the late reply. the block with two sheaves is used as the topping lift. The wire was used by the PO, and currently to attach the main halyard when the main is down so it isn't smacking the mast.

[JimsCAL]

Looks like the outhaul is intended to go around that semi-circular fitting at the end of the boom and then cleated off on the black cleat. Not the best system but it should work.

[rhsanborn]

Jim,

How would I rig a proper out-haul? Would that require a new boom to accommodate such a thing? Or a line run through blocks to a winch?

[GeorgeB]

Rhsanborn, your outhaul is “proper” for a boat that is circa 1970. However, you can do better. The original gives you a 3:1 purchase, but unfortunately, the chock molded into the end boom cap puts way too much friction in your system. The builder has provided a mounting hole for a “proper” turning block on the port side of the boom. Mount a turning block there with a shackle. The block’s sleeve wheel should be large enough so it (roughly) lines up with the boom track. You can remove the cleat on the stb side and mount it opposite of the original. You will want to tap in the screw holes as this fitting will take a fair amount of load. To make your outhaul a 4:1, keep the original cleat (in addition to the new one) Tie your outhaul line to it, route through the chock, then through the clew (you can mount a block with a shackle here to reduce friction). Then back to your new block on the boom end and back to the new cleat. You could also mount an eye strap instead of the new cleat and adjust from the original cleat. Needless to say, you have several options, all of which should be under $50 and you don’t have to buy a new boom! Have fun and report back.

Can you post a photo or two showing your topping lift? It is interesting that the previous owner had more purchase power in his topper than his outhaul.