Furlex 200S Disassembly for transport - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2011
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Furlex 200S Disassembly for transport

Hi folks,

love the articles and figured someone here would know how to solve this:

I just bought a used Furlex 200S that came off a Pearson 30, which is what I have, and need to transport it 80miles to my boat. Since I don't have a 35 foot tractor trailer, I'm going to have to disassemble the darn thing.

Using the manual, I've carefully disassembled part of it but, having unscrewed the Norseman terminal fitting, I cannot get the screw-on outer collar to slide back up off the end of the forestay, so I can remove the inner cone. It looks like it's jammed in place, probably due to the sealant that we're supposed to use to prevent salt water intrusion into the fitting.

Obvious solution is to cut the forestay, but this is a perfectly good forestay which will cost me $200+ to replace.... Any thoughts as to how to loosen the collar? I'm thinking heat gun, or acid, or penetrating oil, but don't want to go down a wrong path, since I won't need it for another couple of weeks, and the previous owner is cool with me leaving it there for now.

I'll try to attach a pic later when I have a better connection.

Thanks!

Matt

Last edited by Tailwheel; 06-01-2011 at 01:48 PM. Reason: edited reference to picture
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Old 06-02-2011
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Picture of the offending part

for unknown reasons, the system won't let me upload the 46k 300x400 .jpg.

Anyone interested can pm me and I'll send them the picture, pending resolution of this issue.

Matt
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Old 06-02-2011
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knothead has a spectacular aura about knothead has a spectacular aura about knothead has a spectacular aura about
The Furlex uses a StaLok fitting. You have to deal with it the same way you would any mechanical fitting. Meaning that you have to tap (smack) it off.
You need to have someone at the top of the wire holding a solid weight against the end of the swaged eye. Then screw the eye terminal that you removed from the bottom back on about three turns, but not tight again.(make sure that you remove the eye-jaw toggle before you start smacking it) Then you have to smack it with a hammer till the wedge frees. It helps if you have the guy at the top twist the wire at the same time that he backs it up for you. Make sure that they twist it in the direction that tightens the lay, not in the direction that opens it.
Depending on how tight the fitting was installed in the first place and how long ago it was done, you will find out how hard you have to hit it.
As far as I know, that's the only way to disassemble a Furlex.

I have to point out though that a lot of these systems were installed without an adjuster and the fact that you have the same boat doesn't necessarily mean that your headstay is the same as this furler. You really should check the pin to pin length of your current headstay. You may find out that you will need to cut the wire anyway. If so, and if the furler is more than 10 years old or so, you might just want to replace the wire now. It is the obvious time to replace it since it's down and you have to take it apart anyway. Plus, you will likely feel better knowing exactly how old your headstay is and you shouldn't have to mess with it for a long time.
Make sure that you install a halyard restrainer if you don't have one.
Furlex is a good system if it's installed correctly and it's greased once in a while.
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Old 06-03-2011
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Thanks Knothead,

Perfect! That's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for.

BTW, you're right, I should accurately measure the two headstays. I roughly measured the original, and the one in the Furlex is right in the middle of the spread of measurements I took.

Matt
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