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Old 06-05-2011
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Cockpit sole repair

Hi everyone, This is my first post, and I'm happy to join this community!

If there's a sailor's equivalent to a gardener with a brown thumb, that's me. Most of what I've learned regarding boat repair over the past several years has been learned by doing it the wrong way first.

But I REALLY love the 1965 Columbia 31 that we bought a few seasons back, and I'm trying hard to give this boat the VIP treatment she deserves. The prior owner grew up on boats, and executed an outstanding refit in 2003 so that in many ways I am fortunate to be starting with essentially a new boat in a classic design.

I've hit my first major snag, and it's keeping from launching the boat, so I thought I'd seek the advice of this community to make sure I go about this repair in a sensible way. I'll try to post some pictures later, but for now let me start by describing the issue.

Last season I noticed some softness developing underfoot in the cockpit sole, and later in the season the sound proofing over the engine compartment showed signs of water ingress. So last month I removed the top layer of sound proofing to inspect, and found some pretty extensive core rot going on (and one portion where the entire lower layer of glass must have flexed clear off). I intend to address the rot from below (post-launch) by removing bottom layer and core until I hit all dry core, glassing up a patch ashore, and then glassing that into place. But first, I aim to get the exterior of the cockpit sole watertight so I can launch, and complete the underside repairs while in the water.

So I've taken up all the cockpit sole hardware (2 drains, a round bronze access hatch, and a small bronze port light/inspection window), sanded through the topcoat and the grey primer to the white surface (which I assume to be gelcoat over the top glass layer). Thus far, the access hatch appears the most likely culprit for water ingress, since some radiating hairline cracks in the topcoat appear to directly overlay associated cracks in the gelcoat. [Again, I hope I am right in assuming that's gelcoat] I can also see that the hatch used to be bedded through a different set of holes that have been filled with something that does not look like epoxy. I have a mind do drill out those old holes and fill them with west epoxy to ensure they are not contributing to the ingress.

As usual, I find I'm far more confident tearing things apart than putting them back together. I have my replacement topcoats ready (Interlux Pre-Kote and Brightside polyurethane), as well as an Interlux non-skid that I was going to coat over that. But is there a product you know of that can make easy work of sealing over those hairline cracks beneath the paint (in the gelcoat?)? In a couple of spots (like just aft of the port cockpit drain), is it ok to lay down a thin coat of West Epoxy as a water barrier and to fill the micro-cracks, or does the amount of flex in a cockpit sole preclude the use of epoxy completely? Or perhaps I am overlooking the obvious, and should be buying one of those gelcoat repair kits and applying that to the entire area?

After building up topcoats, I intend to use LifeCalk to re-bed the hardware. Although, if I can get some of that butyl tape described in that great sticky post above in a hurry, I would prefer to follow that model!

Thanks for any guidance or insight any of you can provide to help me advance from a complete hack to an improving novice.
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Old 06-05-2011
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If they are just small cracks in the finish gelcoat you can fill them and paint. But if the sole flexes later they may re-appear. If they go deeper your best bet would be to grind the cracks a bit deeper and wider, maybe with a Dremel, and fill them with thickened epoxy.
Epoxy is the best material to use both for repair above and below the sole.
Butyl would be my choice but the LifeCaulk will work well too. The problem with a cockpit sole is that the weight of a person stepping down can flex it if it isn't strong enough, leading to leaks and damage below. I had the same problem from a leaking fuel fill in the cockpit sole. since re-located.
I would fill the old holes for the hatch as well as the newer ones by overdrilling and then redrilling the proper size so a leak cannot damage the core in the future. This goes for all holes, for the drains and access hatch as well.
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Old 06-05-2011
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mitiepmo,

I am so grateful for that guidance! It had been my initial plan to coat over the problem areas with west epoxy (with the sandable filler as thickener), but then I seemed to recall someone telling me to avoid epoxy on surfaces that flex. You seem to be confirming for me that epoxy is still this novice's best friend, and you have restored my confidence to move forward with plan A. I can't thank you enough.

When using the "overdrilling" technique, is there a rule of thumb for how much wider the epoxy core diameter should be than the diameter of the subsequent drill hole? Thanks again!
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Old 06-05-2011
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I would drill 1/2" or 5/8" hole for a 1/4" bolt. In addition to keeping the core from getting wet in the event of a leak, it helps withstand the compression of the bolts holding the fitting on.

Epoxy is best for several reasons. It is more flexible than polyester, it adheres better than polyester, and it doesn't stink like polyester. It is the expert's friend as well.

But to guard against the cracks coming back in the future grind to make them larger and get to clean fiberglass for better adhesion.
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Old 06-05-2011
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This is great stuff, but I have one follow-up question.

I noticed that Maine Sail in his sticky post on rebedding mentioned he does not condone the "overdriling" approach. Just so I can give some thought to both approaches, I am seeking to better understand the hole preparation (or "potting the core") process he recommends.

On page 4 of that thread, sailingdog states:
Maine Sail, myself and others have addressed potting the core material properly in several threads.
Does anyone happen to know where I might find some of those links?

On page 5, Maine Sail states:
The filling with un-thickened then thickened is to allow some fine penetration and a better bond to the surrounding balsa rather than just dumping in thickened epoxy. Think of it as a bonding primer. You then thicken it and have a good base for the thickened epoxy to bond to. Dentists do a similar thing with the polymer fillings. They first bore out the tooth then apply an unthickend priming resin which penetrates into all the small pores. The thickened polymer is then added over the top of the primer/penetrating resin and the filling is then complete after some finishing.

So is he just describing a process where the unthickened epoxy is used first because it will seek out more surface area bonding with the core, then the hole is filled with thickened epoxy before re-drilling? How does that re-drilling not then remove all the thickened epoxy if the hole is not widened? Maybe I'm misunderstanding something.

Thanks again!! I think this is my last question before I set out to re-glass the underside once I have launched the boat.
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Old 06-05-2011
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Oh wow ... disregard my last. I just found a terrific description here of the two methods at Maine Sail's website. Since these are no-load hardware pieces, I see no reason not to use the overdrilling technique, which sounds simpler.

Just to be sure, I rebed the hardware before applying primer and paint to the cockpit sole, correct?

Thanks!!
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Old 06-05-2011
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Hi

The Dremel method Maine Sail uses is the same one I use. If you don't have a Dremel and/or the proper bit overdrilling works fine. Make sure you drill through the top glass layer and core but not the bottom layer, and then tape underneath.

Prime and paint the entire sole before re-bedding the hardware. A lot easier this way. Neater as well.
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