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-   -   Teak Rub-rail (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/75376-teak-rub-rail.html)

hubblect 06-17-2011 09:02 AM

Teak Rub-rail
 
Refurbishing a 69' Highlander with a teak rub-rail. Teak came out good after sanding and refinishing. Going to purchase new fastners to finish off the look. Question is do i use any type of sealant (silicone?) on the top and bottom of the rail where it meets the fiberglas body? I assume there would be no adhesive on the back-side of the rail being that it has about 20 brass wood screws down the length of the boat. It didn't look like there was any adhesive or sealer on the back-side of the rail when I took it off but it could have disappeared with age.

Thanks for the help!!!

arf145 06-17-2011 09:18 AM

Someone else can give the definitive answer but, 1) don't use silicone, whatever you use, 2) those are probably bronze screws, not brass, 3) if the screws are penetrating the fiberglass at all, I'd at least seal around the screws. I'd use butyl tape.

seaduced8104 06-17-2011 09:32 AM

butyl tape
 
I like butyl tape for many applications but believe the correct and best way to deal with the fasteners if the core is dry is to drill them out oversized, fill with apoyy like west system etc, then re-drill and install screws. If leaks around screws were to happen (definate posibility on flexing deck) any water would not be able to migrate / wick into core.

Captain Michael

DwayneSpeer 06-17-2011 01:26 PM

sealing
 
It isn't necessary to seal the rub rail to the boat but can help with keeping growth like mildew from getting a hold there. I have a full teak deck and the only place I have any problem with mildew is the edge where the teak meets the fiberglass.

The other suggestions on sealing the screw holes are excellent ones.

RichH 06-17-2011 03:55 PM

If you dont seal the rub strake to the hull, water will accumulate between the two and will eventually permeate through the wood and thus turn it 'dark/black' must faster. Also trapped moisture 'behind' the wood will especially cause the coating to begin to 'lift' at the margin of the wood nearest the hull. Very best is to 'encapsulate' the strake with epoxy on the side that touches the hull, then affix to the hull with 'caulk'.

Simple answer: seal it, standard "Life Cauik" that is 'colored' (teak, mahogany, etc.) will work best and will be the 'least obvious'.

arf145 06-17-2011 10:16 PM

This is a rubrail, screwing into the side of the hull? Or maybe I don't have the correct picture. But if it isn't screwing into cored hull, I don't see why the whole drill-out, epoxy, redrill process is necessary.


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