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-   -   Sealing the gap - top loading freezer (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/75487-sealing-gap-top-loading-freezer.html)

Bene505 06-21-2011 02:30 PM

Sealing the gap - top loading freezer
 
Does anyone have any hints on improving the seal on a top loading fridge and freezer? The gap is too small for the standard hardware store rubber gaskets, and our holding plate quickly becomes covered in frost. (In our nearly empty freezer.)

http://hallmont.com/pics/sailnet%20p...re_598x800.jpg

I tried the very thinnest rubber strip from the hardware store, but it made the lid stick up. I'd estimate the gap to vary between 1/3 centimeter to 1/10th centimeter. The fact that it varies is a part of the problem.

I'm thinking about spraying the edge of the freezer with Pam, smearing grease or other non-stick and then applying a generous amount of silicone to the lid. Then I could wait until the silicone sets a bit and close the lid. Then I'd trim off any excess.

Does this sound workable? There has got to be a better way.

Regards,
Brad

SVCarolena 06-22-2011 10:25 AM

We have the same problem, so am curious to hear what others may have for ideas. We want to seal the gap not so much to prevent frost (that will happen anytime you open the refer on a humid day), but to increas efficiency. After a humid night, we find condensation on the cold counter around the lid. One unrelated thing we do to increase efficiency it to use a piece of Reflectix insulation cut to fit the top of the box. We use it like a blanket over the contents of the refer. The difference in cycling is amazing compared to without the blanket. Anyway, very interested to hear of possible solutions to sealing the lid.

bubb2 06-22-2011 10:38 AM

MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 120 in. Marine and Automotive Weather Strip - 06577 at The Home Depot

jrd22 06-22-2011 11:41 AM

I think I would try installing a seal around the top edge of inside of the freezer compartment. It looks like you have a fairly uniform gap between the side walls and the inside of the lid. You could use a high quality neoprene type weather stripping (not the foam kind) that is like a tube with a hollow space in the middle (it comes in various thicknesses). 3M makes a very strong weather strip adhesive that you could use to glue it to the side walls with.

CalebD 06-22-2011 01:12 PM

2 words: Butyl tape.

Bene505 06-22-2011 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CalebD (Post 742984)
2 words: Butyl tape.

That would work perfectly for establishing a good gasket. But the stuff never dries, so it would always be there, sticky and catching crumbs from the top surface.

I think silicone would work because it does solidify after awhile. Thinking about this some more, I could tape-off a section of the lid, so the silicone would be exactly where I want it to be. Then I could trim off the excess.

----

Related to this, I've designed a simple circuit to increase efficiency. When you start the engine (or your wind genny goes into dump load mode), it does a couple things. #1) It affects/restarts the thermostat to override the hystersis between the minimum and maximum temperature. And #2) it puts the compressor on high speed. [And adding #3: it doesn't overdo it when the dump load is frequently cycling on and off.] All that with just a handful of parts and some wire, and it doesn't use any power when standing-by. I've shelved building it until I get a good lid gasket made.

Regards,
Brad

arf145 06-22-2011 04:56 PM

Looking at the picture, I think jrd22 has the right idea--put the gasket between the side of the upper insulation and the side of the fridge, rather than under the lip of the lid. There appears to be a gap there, and you'll get your seal without interfering with the lid closing.


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