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Old 06-24-2011
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Re-commissioning gas oven

My propane gas oven doesn't work, and hasn't for a while, but I think it's because the gas tanks are empty. They look rather old and rusty though. Time for new ones.

I'm a little worried about the plumbing (hoses and a selector valve in the locker) between the stove and locker though - how long does it last? It's all from 1984.

What would you do in my position? Is there any kind of leak detector you can get?
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Old 06-24-2011
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You can get gas leak detectors... good ones are a bit pricey. If your system has a gauge you could pressurize it and then isolate it again... watch the gauge to see if the pressure falls, indicating a leak.

New hoses would probably be a good idea but if you plan to use it frequently you should go the full ticket.. a solenoid valve for isolation/shutoff, make sure the storage location is properly vented and draining. You likely won't be able to refill the old tanks anyhow so new ones will be required there. Replacing the system as a whole will provide a lot of peace of mind.

The newer fiberglass tanks, while a bit costly, are great because there's no rusting, and with most you can actually see how much there is left in the tank.
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Old 06-25-2011
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A good propane sniffer isn't that expensive. This is the one I install often.
GS6: Propane Detector with Propane Shut-off

$237 and it includes one sensor and has a built-in solenoid control. Allows you to turn the propane on/off remotely and if a leak is detected closes the solenoid valve automatically. A second sensor is optional.
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Old 06-25-2011
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I would start out with replacing the propane tank. You won't be able to get around this as the old style tanks can't be filled anymore. You have new style tanks if the handle is a 3 pronged knob. Once filled and connected, turn on the solenoid ( I'm sure that was required back in 1984) and spray soapy water on the connections. If there is a leak, it will make bubbles. Nice and simple.

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Old 06-25-2011
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Assuming you get gas to the stove/oven before you try to light anything, check the burner tubes to make sure there isn't cobwebs or cocoons from different types of bugs or spiders.
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Old 06-25-2011
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Solenoids are not required, now or in the past.
A method of closing the tank from near the stove is required and a tank you can turn off manually works if it is nearby.
Solenoids are more convenient though.
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Old 06-25-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladrags1 View Post
I would start out with replacing the propane tank. You won't be able to get around this as the old style tanks can't be filled anymore. You have new style tanks if the handle is a 3 pronged knob. Once filled and connected, turn on the solenoid ( I'm sure that was required back in 1984) and spray soapy water on the connections. If there is a leak, it will make bubbles. Nice and simple.

Tod
Well there is a mysterious electrical switch near the oven. I wonder if that works a solenoid? I should be able to hear a click if it's working.
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Old 06-25-2011
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If there is it will be near the tank, either before or after the regulator, and have 2 wires attached to it.
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Old 06-25-2011
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If the stove (oven) has not be used for a long time, consider to clean up the thermocouples with sand paper ... just remove any 'glaze' thats on the thermocouple and make them 'bright'. Such glaze will prevent proper thermocouple electrical signals being sent to the 'safety valves' and will not allow the safety valves to open. The thermocouples are usually located 'immediately above' each pilot light device at the bottom of the oven.
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Old 06-25-2011
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It will have thermocouples but may not have an oven pilot light - most marine stoves don't.
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