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post #1 of 10 Old 07-24-2003 Thread Starter
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Deck hardware

I have never had to change deck hardware, but I have a swivel block with pulley contraption that is my main that I need to replace, and I do not want to mess anything up.

Exactly what types of silicon, glue, or whatever do I need to plug the holes after I take the old gear off, and how long until I can drill back into it?
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-24-2003 Thread Starter
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Deck hardware

sorry, work interuptted me and I didn''t finish. The swivel block and pulley is one of my main sheet blocks on top of my cockpit (i don''t have main gear with a traveler, etc.)
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-24-2003 Thread Starter
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Deck hardware

sorry, work interuptted me and I didn''t finish. The swivel block and pulley is one of my main sheet blocks on top of my cockpit (i don''t have main gear with a traveler, etc.)
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-25-2003 Thread Starter
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Deck hardware

Come on now people. You are telling me that no one has replaced a block on a fiberglass deck. What do i need to use to fill the holes before I redrill.?
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-25-2003
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Deck hardware

Use epoxy filled with colloidal silica powder. Use an epoxy catalyst that matches the ambient heat range, let cure (48+ hours), then heat the repair with a heat gun (without burning the repair/gel coat etc.) to complete the cure. Then redrill.
Go to the "WEST System" site for specific details: www.gougeon.com/ or www.westsystem.com
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-25-2003
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Deck hardware

Then there is the quicker less permanent method. Use 3M 4200 to fill in old holes and seal the new ones. This is assuming that you are replacing with a similar block in the same location. Use fast cure and it will be fully set in 24 hrs and you can probably use it in 12.

Mike
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-25-2003 Thread Starter
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Deck hardware

that''s exactly what i''m doing, I will go and grab some of that 4200. I''m assuming it''s the type of stuff I''ll need a caulking gun for...Another stupid deck hardware question...should I use the exact same holes that the original screws were in...i.e. unsrew the old hardware, put this marine adhesive in there, let it cure, then drill back through the same hole locations? or, since this is a swivel, so the holes will be a square about 1.5 in. apaqart from one another, should I drill new holes around the circumference of the same circle?
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-26-2003
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Deck hardware

A note to the "4200" Fan-Club.
The quickest & easiest way is seldom the best way.
Remember, if you don''t have time to do it right in the first place - where will you get the time to fix it?
If the existing holes, and the surrounding solid fibreglass are in good shape (no spauling, no hole elongation etc), overdrill the exit''g holes and epoxy, then re-drill to size. "4200" can (then) be applied as a deck sealant.
All rig fastenings should be "backed".
OMO
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-28-2003
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Deck hardware

Hate to disagree- but I once owned a boat that the previuos owner used 5200 on.. Had core rot everyplace that the 5200 had dried up and leaked.

I suggest using the epoxy method described above. But go further, bend a nail into an "L" shape and gouge out a hollow with a power drill in your coring to create a washer of sorts. Then fill the hollow with thickened epoxy. It will also take the load better.

Dave
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-29-2003
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Deck hardware

If the holes are in the same place and the right size and not damaged, they could be reused and sealed with 4200 - BUT, I get the impression that you are talking about screws, and not bolts that go all the way through, in which case you must go the epoxy repair route. I would''nt feel comfortable having that fitting attached with screws and replace them with through bolts and a backing plate. There was a good article by Don Casey about holes in the deck, can''t seem to find it on the sailnet site, but you can see it at http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/39.htm
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