some version of the Hyde Streamstay One Solid Rod Furling System - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 06-27-2011
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some version of the Hyde Streamstay One Solid Rod Furling System

I've this OLD Hyde furler on my mizzen which I believe to be some version of the Hyde Streamstay One Solid Rod Furling System.
The Halyard Swivel gets frozen often (up or down, no difference) & unable to twist (roll). A little spray lube & a tap or two w/ a hammer & I'm good for another few months.
Seems as though the bearings, bushings & other internal parts are fine, it just needs to be lubed?? As a mizzen furler it is not a simple matter to bring down. I use the mizzen rarely, so it's usually frozen when I want to.
Can not find info on lube, other than grease??? there are so many greases.
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Old 06-27-2011
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knothead has a spectacular aura about knothead has a spectacular aura about knothead has a spectacular aura about
Capta, See my reply in the hypocrite thread.
Unfortunately, there is just no way to lube the bearings in the swivel without taking it apart.
It sounds like it's a behind the mast furler so it shouldn't be too much trouble to get it down. It's really the only way to do it.
What happens with these things is that they don't get repacked often enough and when they sit for long periods the water that gets into the swivel causes rust on the plain steel bearings. That's why it's important to not only pack the bearings but to also fill the empty cavity where they sit with grease too.
Plain old wheel bearing grease will work fine but it's probably better in hot climates to use a high temp grease.

Really, just tie a halyard to it and lay it on the dock. It's the only way to do it right. Even if you are able to break it loose it's going to freeze up again when it sits for a couple of weeks. There is just not enough grease in the bearings.
When these things were sold, it was recommended that they be serviced once a year. Though I have never seen anyone do it.
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Old 06-27-2011
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OK, thanks.
No to be at all argumentative, but I can see no reason not to put a zerk in the top & bottom plate & force the grease in from both sides, thereby filling all. BUT, OF COURSE I have never seen one apart, nor can I tell from the rigrite site photo of the unit, everything necessary to make an informed decision. Are the upper & lower bearings connected or is the swivel cast w/ 2 separate bearing holders?
Tried the PM thing but somehow I've gone from a several year member to not enough posts member?
Regards knothead,
capta
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Old 06-27-2011
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Originally Posted by capta View Post
OK, thanks.
No to be at all argumentative, but I can see no reason not to put a zerk in the top & bottom plate & force the grease in from both sides, thereby filling all. BUT, OF COURSE I have never seen one apart, nor can I tell from the rigrite site photo of the unit, everything necessary to make an informed decision. Are the upper & lower bearings connected or is the swivel cast w/ 2 separate bearing holders?
Tried the PM thing but somehow I've gone from a several year member to not enough posts member?
Regards knothead,
capta
Actually, there would be no reason not to put a zerk fitting in after or while you are servicing the swivel. It's just that the grease is not going to get into the bearings without removing them, opening them (there is a cover on each side of the bearings) and packing them. The zerk will help you keep the cavity full and help prevent the water from getting in in the future. Just make sure where you drill the hole is in an open area of the side not in the top or bottom plate. You don't want to hit the bearing.

The swivel is two separate pieces with a bearing in each half.

The main bearings are in each end of the foil and there are usually two or three separate bearings stacked.
I have the drawings and if you want me to I can put them in this thread tomorrow.
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Old 06-28-2011
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furler

As a single-hander at anchor, it's going to be a bit more difficult than simply laying it on the dock. However, it seems that if I must take it down & apart, I might just as well change the bearings. One guy on one of the threads found bearings for a smaller unit for a lot less than the repair kits, but what is your suggestion? Are there any other critical parts to change, only available in the kits? Sounds to me that removing the spool end is the real problem, though if it's on a mast, not the bow, it should have had much less salt water immersion???? Maybe I'll get lucky, ha, ha.
Drawings would definitely help, thanks.
Capta
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Old 06-28-2011
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Originally Posted by capta View Post
As a single-hander at anchor, it's going to be a bit more difficult than simply laying it on the dock. However, it seems that if I must take it down & apart, I might just as well change the bearings. One guy on one of the threads found bearings for a smaller unit for a lot less than the repair kits, but what is your suggestion? Are there any other critical parts to change, only available in the kits? Sounds to me that removing the spool end is the real problem, though if it's on a mast, not the bow, it should have had much less salt water immersion???? Maybe I'll get lucky, ha, ha.
Drawings would definitely help, thanks.
Capta

Being at anchor does complicate things a bit.
Changing the bearings may not be necessary, but you will be able to tell when you see them. I've had pretty good success reusing the swivel bearings even when they have been rusted. They aren't under nearly the loads that the main bearings are. They are also much larger and heavier.
I have always gotten the bearings from a local bearing supplier. The only time I bought a kit from Rig Rite was when I needed to shorten a rod.

Getting the drum off the bottom end is always a challenge. The first couple of pictures show a tool that I made for this job. I have always been able to remove the drums with this tool using a propane torch. I tighten up the nuts and then apply the heat. In a few moments the drum pops a fraction of an inch then I retighten the nuts and do it again.



















I don't know why the pictures came out so small. The last time I did this they were huge.
Maybe if you copy the image you can blow it up on your computer.
If that doesn't work, I can share the Picasa album with you if you send me your email address in a PM.
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Old 11-23-2013
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Re: some version of the Hyde Streamstay One Solid Rod Furling System

Knothead--

Your pictures on this thread have 'gone away'.

You mentioned that you have them on Picasa-- can I please see them?

I recently bought-- 1979 Cheoy Lee (Ray Richards) equipped with Hyde and it needs work.

Thanks a lot--- !

Rick rickliotta "at" fplsolutions.com
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Old 11-23-2013
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Re: some version of the Hyde Streamstay One Solid Rod Furling System

I finally freed up mine in place. Only lower was stiff. Remove the allan bolts inside spool. Raise spool. Tapping, oiled, or caned heat to help it. Then you can work in some lube on the bearing case, without lowering the foil.
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Old 11-23-2013
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Re: some version of the Hyde Streamstay One Solid Rod Furling System

Will post parts diagram soon.

google..."Hyde Streamstay One" and you have the parts diagram.

The pictures were posted 2 years ago!

Last edited by sony2000; 11-23-2013 at 09:29 PM. Reason: google
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Re: some version of the Hyde Streamstay One Solid Rod Furling System

You mean the Rig-Rite site--- correct?? ( Hyde Streamstay One ) Have been there already and found it very useful. Thank you.

Are your 2 year old pics of the same content??

Rick
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