Thanks for the replies. How much time do you think is involved in this process? I have a guy that will do it for $60/h, I am not sure if I should tackle this myself. The guy's a pro and hopefully could do it on haulout day so I avoid a yard fee. If I try to do it myself.......who the hell knows?
There is no way to know "how long" as every job is different.
1- NEVER, EVER, EVER use, or let anyone use, a slide hammer to pull a shaft out of a coupling unless you want to buy a new gear box in short order. It will very, very likely brinell the bearings which creates a flat spot in the bearing or race..
2- Try and AVOID using the gear box flange to "press off" the old coupling if it is any older than a few months. These output flanges need to be aligned to .003" and you can bend one or break one quite easily trying to press a rusted coupling off.
3- Often times the flange needs to be cut off the shaft. I once cut one off and dropped it at a local machinist to see "what it took" to actually press it off. An five ton press was required to get it out. Some of them literally weld themselves to the shaft and no amount of PB Balster or heat seems to help. That one had two or three weeks of PB Blaster...
If you make a cut with an angle grinder just over the keyed slot in the coupling you won't harm the shaft. HOWEVER, you will have ferrous dust all over the interior of your engine compartment & boat that will turn to rust spots the minute humidity hits it. Not a good option...
4- In relation to #3 it is often far less costly and cleaner to cut the bronze or stainless shaft, no ferrous dust, and replace the coupling and shaft when you do this job.
5- I have seen many instances when someone wanted to try and save a penny and once the shaft was out and the gear box destroyed the shaft was so worn at the cutlass interface that it needed replacement anyway. So now they needed a new gear box, shaft and coupling....
6- DO NOT get any PB Blaster or any real penetrating oil on the gear box output seal or you'll likely be in for a re-build! Penetrating oils can soften and eat gear box output seals..
7- Straight couplings should be an interference fit or light press fit. Once you remove one that has any amount of rust this fit is usually destroyed. It is almost always best to replace the coupling any time you remove one. Having dealt with lots of shaft replacements I have seen perhaps less than 3-4% of the couplings that were actually re-usable.
8- Always have a new coupling fitted & faced to the shaft. This ensures that the coupling "fits" onto the shaft with the correct interference fit and that the face of it rotates perfectly with the shaft.
9- When re-installing consider a "split coupling" as opposed to a straight. Buck Algonquin makes these.
10- Use AWAB ot T-Band hose clamps on your new stuffing box hose and only use hose made specifically for stuffing boxes. Buck Algonquin also makes this hose.
11- Replace the cutlass bearing when you have the shaft out as this saves a ton of time and money..