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  #1  
Old 07-25-2011
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Yikes! Shaft Broken

Hey y'all

New to the forum, and I'm going to start with a bang, or an ouch.

My shaft broke in my Newport 27. I was thinking of my options and mainly how much it's going to cost me.

Options - In terms of COST

1. Haul out. Replace with a new shaft. Note: Most likely needs a new coupler housing as well. BIG EXPENSE - 1.5K

2. Trim the shaft. Tap and drill. Have a diver push the shaft forward. Re-position it within the drive. Back on the water. MIDDLE of the ROAD COST. $500

3. Yank the Diesel, sell it. Throw a new 4 stroke on the outboard engine mount in back, get back out there. +Maybe makes some money off the deal.

I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts on this issue. Hopefully I can make a solid decision here.

Thanks

Mr. Golasz

In Marina Del Rey CA.
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Old 07-25-2011
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I would start by trying to determine why the shaft broke...then go from there. Check your engine mounts for starters.

A new shaft should only cost a few hundred $$. Around here many use Miller Island, Miller's Island Propeller Perhaps they could recommend someone in your area.

A coupler should be less than $100? Hurth 4" Split Shaft Coupling (Short)
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Old 07-25-2011
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If you yank the diesel, the instant reduction in the value of the boat will more than offset what you make by selling the engine.
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Old 07-25-2011
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Great look on the couplings.....and shaft pricing. Hmm. Seems like hulling it out is really the correct way to do the job, and the right way for the future.

But do you know if option #two is even feasible? Just curious.
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Old 07-25-2011
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Option #3 is off the table. I just had to throw it out there. Thanks MarkSF.
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After answering why, then where? If at coupling and it is a fatigue fracture (as opposed to bent) you might be able to patch it with small piece of shaft and a rigid clamp collar until your next haul out (where you will certainly want to replace the whole shaft). The problem with changing shafts in the water is usually that the rudder is in the way. Pushing it forward probably isn't an option either if it is correctly positioned to start with. I did this with my Beta installation, where I didn't do a haul out (yet). You won't be able to use the keyway, but properly torqued the clamp collars are pretty good. Go to grainger.com and search for part number 3zn59. This is the one I used. You would of course need the right diameter for your shaft. A prop shop may have a piece of buggered shaft you could use.
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Old 07-25-2011
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I'd haul out and replace with a new shaft and split coupling. At the same time it is a good idea to check the stuffing box hose which can't be replaced with the shaft in place. At the same time replace the packing and cutlass if it is needed.

It need not be expensive - easy to do yourself out of the water.
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Old 07-25-2011
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The money is going to come from in most cases needing to remove the rudder to remove the shaft IF it has a wheel if still a tiller then its pretty easy

I would think there is and aliment issue that will have to be fixed
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Shogan50. I will add this option to the list.

How solid was the fix? and for how long did you run with it? Not trying to do any long runs.....just make it through the rest of the summer.

Thanks.
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Old 07-25-2011
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Tiller steering. BTW.
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