Cabin Sole (Teak and Holly) refurbish - SailNet Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 Old 07-27-2011 Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Cabin Sole (Teak and Holly) refurbish

I am refurbishing the teak and holly sole of our Tayana 47 and have run into an interesting development. I have used the same techniques (sand to bare wood, apply coatings) and find that different boards have a different tone...some darker than others. I have made sure my technicque is the same for each one and am baffled. The original color is a nice blond teak with the results I am getting are darker. I've talked with the manufacturer and they've indicated that differences in wood can cause this. My question, is there any product that I can put on on the first coat that will not absorb into the grain and therefore maintain the light color. Advice is appreciated.

ElTib
ElTiburon11 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 07-27-2011
Oday30!
 
deniseO30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bristol pa
Posts: 6,915
Thanks: 55
Thanked 125 Times in 114 Posts
Rep Power: 10
   
True varnish is dark, new polyurethanes stay allot more clear when applied. You may have to bleach the teak to get it lighter otherwise. Oil = dark with age and teak is full of oil.

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

My last project!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


My boat is sold!
deniseO30 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
Seņor Member
 
PorFin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,444
Thanks: 8
Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
True varnish is dark, new polyurethanes stay allot more clear when applied. You may have to bleach the teak to get it lighter otherwise. Oil = dark with age and teak is full of oil.
ElTib,

Denise is right -- you may need to bleach the teak to get a uniform color from board to board. I've found two-part bleach to be a much easier product to use than oxalic acid crystals dissolved in water. If you only need a single acid wash, you won't need to rinse/neutralize the acid before the final scuff sanding and finish application.
PorFin is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
Senior Member
 
Tim R.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Maine
Posts: 1,543
Thanks: 1
Thanked 27 Times in 26 Posts
Rep Power: 13
 
Are you sure you have not sanded through the teak and are seeing the underlying substrate? Teak veneer is usually very thin.

Tim R.
Out cruising
1997 Caliber 40LRC

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

-----------------------------------------------------
Tim R. is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
Seņor Member
 
PorFin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,444
Thanks: 8
Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by treilley View Post
Are you sure you have not sanded through the teak and are seeing the underlying substrate? Teak veneer is usually very thin.
Trielley,

One thing that many Taiwanese boats share is an abundance of teak -- both a blessing and a curse. Most cabin soles of these babies are about 3/8" teak/holly (or another light wood) glued over top of 5/8" plywood.

That's assuming that the assuming original sole hasn't been removed/replaced at some point along the way.
PorFin is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
Senior Member
 
Tim R.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Maine
Posts: 1,543
Thanks: 1
Thanked 27 Times in 26 Posts
Rep Power: 13
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PorFin View Post
Trielley,

One thing that many Taiwanese boats share is an abundance of teak -- both a blessing and a curse. Most cabin soles of these babies are about 3/8" teak/holly (or another light wood) glued over top of 5/8" plywood.

That's assuming that the assuming original sole hasn't been removed/replaced at some point along the way.
Good point. Somehow I thought the OP mentioned veneer.

Tim R.
Out cruising
1997 Caliber 40LRC

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

-----------------------------------------------------
Tim R. is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
Senior Member
 
MARC2012's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 8
 
Gee I thought teak & holly were two different,mine is?mar
MARC2012 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
Senior Member
 
Sabreman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Yeocomico River, VA
Posts: 1,643
Thanks: 3
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
Rep Power: 10
   
Having built & finished teak furniture as well as having refinished the interior of Victoria, I have some experience here. Many planks of a specie vary wildly in color and grain. Graining will also affect final finish color, too.

Assuming that you did not sand through to the substrate and are dealing with only teak and holly, I'll say that unfinished teak is generally light in color. When a finish is applied, it then darkens the degree of which varies according to the type of finish applied. True varnish will darken the most because of the oils. Urethanes (virtually bullet proof) darken less, but add a nice warm glow, IMO.

Wipe a section of teak with plain water. This is the best that you can do without bleaching. IMO, bleaching is not an option (for me) because it casts a really weird silver or white tint to the wood. I'd rather paint it than abuse the poor piece of wood.

A foolproof way of limiting the toning of any wood is to isolate it from the finish. Apply 2 or more coats Zinsser's Shellac Sealer followed by water-based Urethane. NOTE that I do NOT recommend this course of action. It will work, but aesthetically (again, to me), the warm glow imparted by a oil-based finish is comforting. While a water-based urethane will not darken a wood after it dries, it is notoriously difficult to flow-out properly. Most woodworkers stay away from water-based finishes for this reason.

Examples of the variety of teak follow:

Plantation Teak Corner Cabinet: FURNITURE

Victoria Interior with light teak floor and darker paneling: VICTORIA (and her mistress)

Sabre 38 "Victoria"

Last edited by Sabreman; 07-28-2011 at 06:07 PM.
Sabreman is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 9 Old 07-28-2011
Senior Member
 
Stu Jackson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 869
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 14
 
Saberman's right about this: it is notoriously difficult to flow-out properly. Most woodworkers stay away from water-based finishes for this reason.

Guess I'm not a woodworker and learned the hard way, had to redo a complete piece - of course it was the biggest!!!

They all look a bit different, too. The smaller pieces over the bilge came out darker than the rest of the sole. The veneer looked the same thickness but the bilge covers were thicker substrate.

It's wood, it will always look somewhat different.

Stu Jackson, C34, 1986, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

Last edited by Stu Jackson; 07-28-2011 at 06:14 PM.
Stu Jackson is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Advice refinishing teak and holly sole mcagney Gear & Maintenance 21 03-10-2015 08:08 PM
Teak & Holly Cabin Sole willysail Gear & Maintenance 22 01-11-2012 03:26 PM
teak and holly sole underwater mysticsailor Gear & Maintenance 11 02-16-2009 05:06 PM
Making the illusion of a Teak & Holly Sole?? landlockvasailor Gear & Maintenance 17 06-06-2008 11:46 AM
Replacement Teak and Holly Sole (C&C 37) thomsonjd Gear & Maintenance 2 11-29-2001 05:17 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome