Cabin Sole (Teak and Holly) refurbish - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 07-27-2011
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
ElTiburon11 is on a distinguished road
Cabin Sole (Teak and Holly) refurbish

I am refurbishing the teak and holly sole of our Tayana 47 and have run into an interesting development. I have used the same techniques (sand to bare wood, apply coatings) and find that different boards have a different tone...some darker than others. I have made sure my technicque is the same for each one and am baffled. The original color is a nice blond teak with the results I am getting are darker. I've talked with the manufacturer and they've indicated that differences in wood can cause this. My question, is there any product that I can put on on the first coat that will not absorb into the grain and therefore maintain the light color. Advice is appreciated.

ElTib
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 07-27-2011
deniseO30's Avatar
Move over Joan Rivers!
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bristol pa
Posts: 5,868
Thanks: 51
Thanked 72 Times in 64 Posts
Rep Power: 9
deniseO30 will become famous soon enough deniseO30 will become famous soon enough
True varnish is dark, new polyurethanes stay allot more clear when applied. You may have to bleach the teak to get it lighter otherwise. Oil = dark with age and teak is full of oil.
__________________
Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club. New Website!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

my current "project"!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 07-28-2011
PorFin's Avatar
Señor Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,340
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Rep Power: 7
PorFin is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
True varnish is dark, new polyurethanes stay allot more clear when applied. You may have to bleach the teak to get it lighter otherwise. Oil = dark with age and teak is full of oil.
ElTib,

Denise is right -- you may need to bleach the teak to get a uniform color from board to board. I've found two-part bleach to be a much easier product to use than oxalic acid crystals dissolved in water. If you only need a single acid wash, you won't need to rinse/neutralize the acid before the final scuff sanding and finish application.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 07-28-2011
Tim R.'s Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Maine
Posts: 1,539
Thanks: 1
Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
Rep Power: 12
Tim R. is on a distinguished road
Are you sure you have not sanded through the teak and are seeing the underlying substrate? Teak veneer is usually very thin.
__________________
Tim R.
Out cruising
1997 Caliber 40LRC

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

-----------------------------------------------------
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 07-28-2011
PorFin's Avatar
Señor Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,340
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Rep Power: 7
PorFin is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by treilley View Post
Are you sure you have not sanded through the teak and are seeing the underlying substrate? Teak veneer is usually very thin.
Trielley,

One thing that many Taiwanese boats share is an abundance of teak -- both a blessing and a curse. Most cabin soles of these babies are about 3/8" teak/holly (or another light wood) glued over top of 5/8" plywood.

That's assuming that the assuming original sole hasn't been removed/replaced at some point along the way.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 07-28-2011
Tim R.'s Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Portland, Maine
Posts: 1,539
Thanks: 1
Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
Rep Power: 12
Tim R. is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by PorFin View Post
Trielley,

One thing that many Taiwanese boats share is an abundance of teak -- both a blessing and a curse. Most cabin soles of these babies are about 3/8" teak/holly (or another light wood) glued over top of 5/8" plywood.

That's assuming that the assuming original sole hasn't been removed/replaced at some point along the way.
Good point. Somehow I thought the OP mentioned veneer.
__________________
Tim R.
Out cruising
1997 Caliber 40LRC

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

-----------------------------------------------------
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 07-28-2011
MARC2012's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 7
MARC2012 is on a distinguished road
Gee I thought teak & holly were two different,mine is?mar
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 07-28-2011
Sabreman's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Yeocomico River, VA
Posts: 1,573
Thanks: 2
Thanked 14 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 9
Sabreman will become famous soon enough Sabreman will become famous soon enough
Having built & finished teak furniture as well as having refinished the interior of Victoria, I have some experience here. Many planks of a specie vary wildly in color and grain. Graining will also affect final finish color, too.

Assuming that you did not sand through to the substrate and are dealing with only teak and holly, I'll say that unfinished teak is generally light in color. When a finish is applied, it then darkens the degree of which varies according to the type of finish applied. True varnish will darken the most because of the oils. Urethanes (virtually bullet proof) darken less, but add a nice warm glow, IMO.

Wipe a section of teak with plain water. This is the best that you can do without bleaching. IMO, bleaching is not an option (for me) because it casts a really weird silver or white tint to the wood. I'd rather paint it than abuse the poor piece of wood.

A foolproof way of limiting the toning of any wood is to isolate it from the finish. Apply 2 or more coats Zinsser's Shellac Sealer followed by water-based Urethane. NOTE that I do NOT recommend this course of action. It will work, but aesthetically (again, to me), the warm glow imparted by a oil-based finish is comforting. While a water-based urethane will not darken a wood after it dries, it is notoriously difficult to flow-out properly. Most woodworkers stay away from water-based finishes for this reason.

Examples of the variety of teak follow:

Plantation Teak Corner Cabinet: FURNITURE

Victoria Interior with light teak floor and darker paneling: VICTORIA (and her mistress)
__________________
Sabre 38 "Victoria"

Last edited by Sabreman; 07-28-2011 at 06:07 PM.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #9  
Old 07-28-2011
Stu Jackson's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 777
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 14
Stu Jackson is on a distinguished road
Saberman's right about this: it is notoriously difficult to flow-out properly. Most woodworkers stay away from water-based finishes for this reason.

Guess I'm not a woodworker and learned the hard way, had to redo a complete piece - of course it was the biggest!!!

They all look a bit different, too. The smaller pieces over the bilge came out darker than the rest of the sole. The veneer looked the same thickness but the bilge covers were thicker substrate.

It's wood, it will always look somewhat different.
__________________
Stu Jackson, C34, 1986, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

Last edited by Stu Jackson; 07-28-2011 at 06:14 PM.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Teak & Holly Cabin Sole willysail Gear & Maintenance 22 01-11-2012 03:26 PM
Advice refinishing teak and holly sole mcagney Gear & Maintenance 11 09-24-2009 07:03 AM
teak and holly sole underwater mysticsailor Gear & Maintenance 11 02-16-2009 05:06 PM
Making the illusion of a Teak & Holly Sole?? landlockvasailor Gear & Maintenance 17 06-06-2008 11:46 AM
Replacement Teak and Holly Sole (C&C 37) thomsonjd Gear & Maintenance 2 11-29-2001 05:17 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:18 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.