Engine Dies HELP!!! - Page 2 - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #11  
Old 08-17-2003
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 36
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
windancer1 is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

Lauralee, One more thing you should check.
The fuel tank vent. Mine got plugged by corrosion once and caused the same problem. If the volvo is the original engine,given the age of the installation, it could be as simple as a plugged vent.

Dave R.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #12  
Old 08-23-2003
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 36
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
lauralee is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

Well, today I checked the tank air vent and it was clear. I also checked the and replaced the fuel line from the tank to the Racor filter, but it was also clear. The tank fittings are clear. I should have the feed pump part by Tuesday next week. I''ll replace that and hope that''s the problem. If that doesn''t work I sure don''t know what else to try. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #13  
Old 08-24-2003
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 552
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
GordMay is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

Try posting your query at the Diesel Clinic:
http://www.dieselclinic.com/forums/
Regards,
Gord
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #14  
Old 08-31-2003
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 36
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
lauralee is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

Thanks againg so much to everyone for their input and suggestions. Today I replaced the feed (fuel) pump on the engine in case that was the problem. Engine still dies. Now only runs about 30 seconds then dies. Restarts everytime and dies again.
Today it even went into gear on its'' own once when it was running at high rpms. Then it died. I''m out of ideas, but I sure have learned a lot about the fuel system on this engine. If anyone has any more ideas they are welcome. Guess I may have to call the mechanic.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #15  
Old 08-31-2003
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 339
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
jbanta is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

I have an idea but you won''t like it...It could be that the cooling ports in the engin it''s self are clogged. I had one I bought and ran for one year and then did just what yours is doing now. The only fix I know is to rebuild the motor. If it is an outboard. The best fix is to buy a new motor.. Sorry
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #16  
Old 08-31-2003
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 36
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
windancer1 is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

lauralee, just a obvious question. After replacing all filters and lines did you bleed all the air out of the top of the primary fuel filter. And then, crack open each line to the injectors and bleed those too? Each time utilizing the lever on the lift pump. Do you have a manual for the Volvo? IF not I do.
I still think it is a fuel problem. How does it start at first? Does it fire right away,(2 to 4) or does it take a lot of revolutions (5 to 10)?

Bleeding the Volvo fuel system may seem easy but it takes quite few strokes of the lift pump to get it all out.

Now the only part we have not touched on is the injector pump. The only thing you can do here is make sure the o rings on the fittings on top of the pump are good and they don''t leak. Other than that, I don''t know what else it could be. But I''ll bet it is something simple!(I hope)

Dave R.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #17  
Old 09-01-2003
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 36
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
lauralee is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

Dave, I did bleed air out of the top of the primary filter, and at the injection pump. I didn''t bleed each line to the injectors and will have to look and see if I can tell where, but I now have a Volvo Workshop Manual. The workshop manual says nothing about how to open the injector lines to bleed them. I have been looking on line for an owner''s Instruction book (downloaded one but it turned out to be in Swedish!). I really appreciate your help here.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #18  
Old 09-01-2003
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 36
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
lauralee is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

Dave,
When the engine is cold it takes 6-10 revolutions to start. Sometimes 2 or three tries.

When the engine is warm it starts 2-3 revolutions.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #19  
Old 09-01-2003
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 36
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
windancer1 is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

lauralee, you can crack open the fuel lines to the injectors a little and using the feed pump, let the air out. This is what a Volvo mech. told me once. But I don''t think that will solve the problem... without being able to check the lift pump pressure and not being able to check the inj. pump (need special tools) I ''m stumped... So I am going to talk this over with a friend of mine who is a diesel mech. Maybe he will have some ideas...

Dave R.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #20  
Old 09-01-2003
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 445
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 14
VIEXILE is on a distinguished road
Engine Dies HELP!!!

O.K. I''ve sat for hours staring at my MD2B with manual in hand and found it mechanically simple all the way around (notwithstanding transmission repairs). I''ll bet my dinghy I could start that motor and keep it running.
1.) Change out all fuel lines with AYBC approved lines. If you''re sure everything is cool, then don''t.
2.) Using a foot pump (air mattress inflation pump) on the fill schnozzel to the fuel tank, with a little rubber elec. tape wrapped around to seal the fill hole, set up the pump (to blow, not suck).
3.) Two person job. There are two bleed screws on the back of the engine. One near the cold start button and one on the fine fuel filter. See manual. Use a box end wrench on the former, and, necessarily, a screwdriver on the latter. Back both out far enough to allow fuel to flow out of each. Don''t DROP these little &*(# ers. Don''t take them out all the way.
4.) Have person one start pumping air into the tank. Even though it''s vented, the vent can''t blow out air harder than you pump it in. KEEP PUMPING.
5.) The person with the (er 10mm?) wrench and screwdriver watches the bleed screws until no more bubbles or air comes out.
6.) Close the filter bleed screw (on top of the fine filter) when fuel runs clear first. It''s the first bleed screw in the fuel system. (As a side note, that rubber gasket at the top of the fine filter CAN leak if it isn''t seated correctly). KEEP PUMPING.
7.) Go to the bleed screw near the cold start button. KEEP PUMPING. When clear fuel is running, no air or bubbles, close it on the downstroke of a pump by the other person in the cockpit.

The problem is, I don''t believe the little hand lift pump in the fuel pump works well at all, and it won''t push the fuel all the way through to the injectors. EVERY YEAR I go through this with my MD2B and it holds for the balance of the season. I believe just once over the past 10 years it cut out due to lack of fuel. What''s happening is you''re getting just enough fuel to the injectors for them to run for just long enough to burn it, then air shows up in the system. Every year I change my racor and other filters, reseal everything and go through the pumping process. I can now do it alone. What it does is fill every possible void in the system with fuel up to the injectors. I''ve never pulled my injector lines to bleed it. You don''t have to. Never seen anyone else do it this way, but had a mechanic watching me one day say "good idea." Such is the result of starting from scratch with systems, with no preconceived notions, and figuring them out yourself. The rebuild on the engine, including new big end bearings on the shaft, is easy, but time consuming. I''ve taken the engine down to the shaft, collected all the parts and rebuilt it all the way up through. No mechanical experience. That was in 1998 and she still runs fine. Send me an address for my invoice.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
slight oil slick in diesel engine exhaust mcagney Gear & Maintenance 7 04-04-2013 01:15 AM
Atomic 4 is 4 lovers agent4change Gear & Maintenance 11 08-07-2011 05:14 PM
engine facing aft with saildrive installation levenezia Gear & Maintenance 3 01-16-2005 10:35 AM
Columbia''s Chysler-Nissan engine madhuri Gear & Maintenance 1 07-06-2001 02:06 AM
Raw Water in Engine wmwtlw Gear & Maintenance 3 02-25-2001 11:31 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:44 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012