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  #11  
Old 08-09-2011
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Catalina 30's have lead keels.
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Old 08-09-2011
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Come to think of it, the original keel mount is simply 4500 pounds or so mounted to 1/2-5/8" of fiberglass with a 1/2" wood spacer in between it all. This is all held on by 8 threaded studs with tiny washers. Apparently the keel bolts are not under immense stress. The bond between the keel and hull must be pretty strong by itself. I figure that if Catalina recommends lag bolts, there must be some merit to it. I inspected this boat while out of the water, along with a surveyer and we found no separation at the keel joint. Something is holding this together. Looking at the keel bolts and the condition of the wood in between, I doubt it is only the keel bolts doing this. Having said that, I dont see how lag bolts, drilled down 12" and backed by serious plates would fail. The alternate process that Catalina suggested was to install new studs next to the old ones. However, this involves drilling large holes in the side of the keel that from the experiences of other sailers, is a constant source of leaks. Thanks for the idea's so far. AR
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Old 10-29-2011
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Hello Alanr77

I have a similar issue with my keel bolts, would you be willing to share the diagrams, p/n & instructions Catalina sent you?

Thank you.
Edward
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Old 10-29-2011
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The keel bolts are doing most of the work - the sealant is there only to keep the join water tight. The weak point is the plywood that should not ever have been used. The best fix is to drop the keel and remove the plywood. replacing it with a heavy glass and epoxy layup.

If the plywood is dry it will last a few years but if (when) it gets wet the keel will move.
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Old 10-31-2011
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Edcat, here is the email they sent, I will PM the attachments or try to attach them here. AR.

"Alan,
Attached is a drawing showing how lag bolts can be sistered in to help reinforce the existing keel bolts. We typically recommend using 1/2" x 10" lag bolts equally spaced between the existing bolts. You pre drill with 27/64" bit and then screw in the lag bolts. The older boats had wood in the keel stub and some have found that the threads are ok in the areas were the wood was, when the wood is removed (only necessary if it has become rotten).

Good Sailing,

Kent Nelson
Engineering Department
Catalina Yachts
21200 Victory Blvd.
Woodland Hills, CA 91367
(818) 884-7700 ext. 237
(818) 884-3810 Fax
Yachts and boats for sale - Catalina Yachts
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Last edited by alanr77; 10-31-2011 at 11:28 AM.
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As usual, life has gotten in the way and I have yet to pull the boat out. I have been having issues with getting the boat transported to a yard that will allow me to work on it. Georgia is NOT a boat friendly place to be. All in all, it seems I will have to get the boat hauled at one yard, trucked 1/2 mile to another so that I dont have to pay $35 a day storage and $3000 for a bottom job. I will still document the keel and mast step repairs when I do. As ugly as my keel bolts are, we dove under the boat last week and inspected the keel to hull joint. After 1 year there is no crack. Whatever condition the bolts are in, they are still holding. The lag bolts may now be a solution. More to follow...
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Hi Alanr77

I had a problem, less than 15 posts so I cant reply and needed to post here.

Could you use the following email : ed__s__@hotmail.com

Thank you
Edward
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One look at the picture of your keel bolts and the first thing I could think of is ANTIBIOTICS
And maybe be a little more selective with regard to crew members in the future. Ugh.
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Old 10-31-2011
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Alan, lag bolts sound like a very practical solution, especially when the builder says it will work. The conventional repair is to sister in new keel bolts, drilling down into the keel and then crosswise to attch bolts or bend hooks into the bottom of the new bolts, and refilling the holes in the keel with new lead or epoxy. A LOT MORE WORK than installing lag bolts, arguably no better result.

Bear in mind that is you are drilling into a lead keel that makes lead dust, hazmat and toxic to breath. The procedure there is usually to use drilling mud (i.e. grease or lube) so that no dust comes out of the holes are you are working, and a particle mask would be good insurance anyway.

I expect you'll need to rent a large drill to make that job go fast, and simply buy a nice shiny sharp new bit for the holes.
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Siamese: You think that's bad, you should have seen the result of me trying to remove a torn, full, 15 year old flexible holding tank. (Why do people use these???) Not pretty and the resulting infection within my knee warranted a trip to the ER. I'm lucky I still have "crew mates"...

Edward: the "s" has me confused. Is it your user name?

HelloS: Catalina direct is now selling a "kit"..albeit a high priced one that requires only a hand drill. I can't see how this could drill a straight hole however without building a guide. I may create a homemade "press" to attach my drill to. I am aware of the lead and will take proper precautions. This whole task does not seem very daunting and seems to be well within the scope of my abilities. I am however very curious as to what things will look like underneath the top layer of fiberglass. The fun one will be the two bolts under my engine.
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