Old Keel bolt repair - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 35 Old 10-31-2011
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Only two bolts under the engine? Sounds like the instructions to change the oil on the Porsche Boxster: First, jack the engine...
Think of this an a good excuse to install new engine mounts, which will absorb more vibration, and reconfirm your propshaft alignment.
I'm sure a hand drill eventually will do it, and if the bolt isn't perfectly plumb it will still take load. Still...two years ago I had to have a discussion with a concrete wall and I bought a genuine impact drill, light commercial grade, because the wall wasn't near my home and my trusty Craftsman drill. Funny thing, having the right tool with the right power behind it made the job trivial. The average 1/4" or 3/8" home drill...let me guess, are they using three inch bolts or four? (sigh). I can't pretend to know if you'd even really need more than that, I'd just *suspect* the lagbolts should be as long as the real keel bolts, and I'd be shocked if those weren't over a foot long. Big hole for a home drill.

But there are drill guides for some drills, from some makers. Not very expensive, just not something that's always in stock.
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post #22 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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10" bolts with a hand drill in lead?

A good 1/2' electric with a low speed (500 rpm) and a lot of torque would be my choice. $500 or $600 where I am. Maybe you can rent it.

And if the plywood is wet all vbets are off - it should be removed and replaced with epoxy and roving to the same thickness.

As far as "especially when the builder says it will work" - remember the builder was the one who did it wrong to start with.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #23 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Hi Alanr77

Sorry for the confusion. ed__s__@hotmail.com (there are 2 _ _ after both the "d" and "s" which can cause confusion).

If the email ed__s__@hotmail.com still causes issues please try the following email: edc30@shaw.ca

Thank you for your help, and I am sorry for the issues.
Edward
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post #24 of 35 Old 11-01-2011 Thread Starter
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Edcat, email sent.

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post #25 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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"remember the builder was the one who did it wrong to start with. "
What, 30-40 years with zero owner maintenance, and you call that wrong? I know, they should have used bronze, but buyers WANTED lean shiny modern faultless stainless steel parts back then. You probably couldn't give away a boat with obsolete [sic] bronze hardware at that time.

In most US cities there are tool rental stores, and the big box hardware stores rent out commercial grade equipment for DIYers by the day or half. Almost anything, inlcuding drill bits for masonry and other large jobs. But oddly enough, no battery cable crimpers.

Maybe there's a business opportunity to be had, franchising out "Crimps-R-Us" shops?
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As far as the builder doing it the wrong way, I was referring to plywood in the keel stub. When it gets wet - not if - it rots and the bolts sink into it causing the keel/hull joint to open.

Most major builders use stainless for keel bolts and if inspected every so often they are ok.

Brian
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post #27 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Ah, plywood.

And no automatic bilge drier, either. Tsk, tsk. :-)

I blame these things on Reddy Kilowatt. That lying SOB promised us all we'd have nuclear reactors the size of a small hot water heater by the 80's, and dirt cheap endless clean electric power. Where is he now, 30+ years overdue?!
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post #28 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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I just replaced my keel stub and installed the lag bolts a little over a month ago. I also have a 76. Hull # 249. I found more layers in the keel stub than Catalina described and showed on the drawing they provided.

There were actually two layers of plywood separated by REALLY hard grey material. It's harder than concrete although it looks a lot like it. I tried a ton of different tools to remove the grey stuff. Nothing worked well. I ended up having to beat it out with a hammer and wood chisel...took forever. There was another layer of the grey material below the second layer of plywood. Then finally fiberglass and lead below that. In all, I ended up cutting out about 4 to five inches of keel stub.

FYI - The lag bolts were extremely difficult to install in the 27/64" hole. My pneumatic impact gun couldn't drive them down. I had to bore out the holes a tiny bit. Still couldn't get them in all the way. I finally borrowed a massive Dewalt impact gun and it even struggled with one of the lag bolts.

It's not a fun project but I'm really glad I did it after seeing all the rotten wood that came out of there.

My complete refit is taking completely too long!
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I wouldn't try to install lag bolts of that size with a drill. A nice whopping big ratchet or other wrench, with the longest handle you can find, or a length of pipe added to exend the handle. Torque! Nothing beats it.
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post #30 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
Bear in mind that is you are drilling into a lead keel that makes lead dust, hazmat and toxic to breath. The procedure there is usually to use drilling mud (i.e. grease or lube) so that no dust comes out of the holes are you are working, and a particle mask would be good insurance anyway.

I expect you'll need to rent a large drill to make that job go fast, and simply buy a nice shiny sharp new bit for the holes.
When drilling lead with a sharp bit there is no discernible `dust` - it drills with lovely long curls of lead. Wearing face protection is advisable when drilling anything but you really don`t have to worry about the toxicity of lead IMHO unless you are a pro doing a lot of it regularly.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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