lining inside of cabin with wood

[nodders]

I am looking at ripping out the outdated, musty fabric lining parts of the interior of our Sirius 28 sloop and replacing it with wood of some type. My plan is to first clean and paint the fiberglass underneath the fabric, then epoxy mounting stips vertically to the hull (16 inch on centre likely) and then attach wood strips (1 1/2" or so) horizontally using short brass screws and finish edges with some quarter round. Varnish. Am thinking ash or some other wood that would be very light in colour.

Question; does this seem a reasonable approach? Do I need to seal the wood on the hull side?

many thanks

[mitiempo]

It makes sense and is done quite often. Looks better than any carpet lining. Insulation can be placed between the hull and the wood strips as well if desired.
I would seal the wood on all sides.

Here are some examples:

[Siamese]

Ash sounds like a good choice. Nice to work with, good color and grain for what you're doing. I'll assume you want to paint the fiberglass because it may be visible in the gaps between your ash strips? Why not paint it after you mount your 16"oc mounting pieces, so you're not expoxying the mounting pieces to paint?

I wonder about brass for the screws. If they get a nice patina, fine, but what if they go green? Stainless or bronze? Just wondering.

Maybe you won't even need the quarter-round at the ends...who knows? I'd wait and see.

I wonder what you'll find online if you search under "wood strips for boat ceilings", etc. ....maybe even something on this site?

Okay, here's an interesting result: http://books.google.com/books?id=H__...page&q&f=false

[MikeinLA]

Just an FYI. I'm looking to do this in the V berth and aft cabin of my Cat 36 because I noticed that the new boats have it. I called H & L Marine Hardwood in Los Angeles who supplies Catalina with all their woodwork. They make a panel with 1" ash or teak battens glued to 1/8" plywood. If the space you're doing is relatively flat, you might consider this. It would be way easier than attaching the individual battens and it looks perfect. If you email me at Homewest@socal.rr.com, I can send you the PDF of the flyer they sent me on it. They will cut to order, so you don't have to order (ship) a 4 X 8 sheet. I got a quote on three pieces 2' X 6' and it was about 350 bucks.

Mike

[emoney]

Wood looks great inside the cabin. Yes, I would seal the wood, but entirely not just the back sides. Also, depending on the thickness of the strips themselves, you might be able to get away with more than 16" spacing for the furring strips. Also, I'd pre-stain and pre-drill each "slat" before installation. You'll be much, much happier that way and it creates less clean up. Make sure to use a counter-sink drill bit so that your mounting screws will sit flush. If you don't pre-drill, you'll run the risk of splitting the planks, which I'm sure you already know. Now, the bad news is, maintenance is going to increase, of course, but it will definitely look better.

[SloopJonB]

Anybody know what the nominal width is for ceiling planks? They generally look about 2" but I don't have access to anything but pictures to get a measurement.

[SloopJonB]

Originally Posted by Siamese

I wonder about brass for the screws. If they get a nice patina, fine, but what if they go green? Stainless or bronze? Just wondering.

Take the time to countersink and plug the fasteners with plugs cut from your scrap. Exposed screws in woodwork look cheap no matter how expensive they are or how neatly they are installed.

Don't forget to align the grain of the plug with that of the plank. If you are careful with your colour matching, they will virtually disappear. Also, using varnish to "glue" the plugs in rather than actual glue will make them much easier to remove in case of future need.

[mitiempo]

I wouldn't bother plugging the fasteners. Would be hard to do in stock only 1/4" or 5/16" thick anyway. Most builders make them decorative - hence the brass.