Chainplate Sealing - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 23 Old 09-01-2011
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Saber counter sinks all holes to accommodate butyl sealant under deck fittings. The process takes extra time, more than doubling the time required to add fittings. But the result is superior. It is attention to details such as these that result in a quality build.

When people write into SailNet about comparing boat quality, it's details such as this that are hard to convey to a new boat owner. Too often the discussion focuses on gear. In my experience, gear is cheap and labor is expensive.

Sorry. I'm off my soapbox.
S-man - I don't understand your reference to the time doubling when you countersink the bolt holes - I just have a countersink on a second drill when I am installing hardware - it only takes a couple of seconds a hole. Can you expand on your comment?

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post #12 of 23 Old 09-01-2011
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SloopJonB

Sikkens - you mean SikaFlex?

On the countersink taking time, I agree it shouldn't double the time but it does add a bit. A larger issue is that all builders should remove the core around all holes through the deck and replace it with thickened epoxy. That would take much more time.

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post #13 of 23 Old 09-01-2011
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Quote:
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SloopJonB

Sikkens - you mean SikaFlex?

On the countersink taking time, I agree it shouldn't double the time but it does add a bit. A larger issue is that all builders should remove the core around all holes through the deck and replace it with thickened epoxy. That would take much more time.
Miti - Yes, 291 IIRC - the less adhesive of their offerings.

- Only a few seconds per fitting in my experience.

- Agreed - that is the best process to protect the core but the chamfer is still needed for sealing.

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post #14 of 23 Old 09-01-2011
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I've been very happy with Life-Calk. I've not used the butyl tape method, but from my limited understanding it wouldn't be a great application for chainplates. Most chainplates run through the deck in a channel. The channel needs to be sealed with a flexible compound, not just the SS cap.

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post #15 of 23 Old 09-01-2011 Thread Starter
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Regarding countersinking, it does take a few seconds, but I usually only have one drill when working on the boat, so I have to unchuck one bit and chuck in a counter sink. I also tend to use a 3rd, larger bit to open the hole at the top so that the gel coat doesn't crack when I insert the screw. I also tend to make a hole, insert the screw and fitting, mark the next hole, take the fitting off, drill that, and repeat. I hate misaligned holes, so I rarely mark and drill them all at once. Old boatyard technique, but it takes time.

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post #16 of 23 Old 09-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post
Regarding countersinking, it does take a few seconds, but I usually only have one drill when working on the boat, so I have to unchuck one bit and chuck in a counter sink. I also tend to use a 3rd, larger bit to open the hole at the top so that the gel coat doesn't crack when I insert the screw. I also tend to make a hole, insert the screw and fitting, mark the next hole, take the fitting off, drill that, and repeat. I hate misaligned holes, so I rarely mark and drill them all at once. Old boatyard technique, but it takes time.
Swordsman - Your one hole at a time procedure is absolutely right. I have found it almost mandatory on thicker decks or the holes will run off at angles from each other like a porcupine. Drilling parallel holes on a compound curved surface ain't easy. If I am mounting a thick piece like a line stopper, I drill through the mounting holes on the hardware - it acts as a bit of a jig to keep things aligned.

As to chucking & swapping bits, I have found that you can now buy drills so cheap that I have multiples - you don't need quality for handyman jobs, only for constant, day in, day out use. Pick up a couple of $20 drills and use them for the countersinking and enlarging the top of the holes - will save you way more time than the cost of them. Besides, it's always a good time to buy a new power tool.

Or do what I do and use your wife's Air Miles to get them for free!

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.

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post #17 of 23 Old 09-05-2011
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Just discovered a leak around one of my chainplates, so I am about to embark on this project myself. I was curious about the butyl tape discussion, in part because I have a ton of this stuff lying around so it would be my sealant of choice for this, assuming it works for the job. Since Maine Sail hasn't chimed in, see his discussion of this issue here: Chainplate sealant revisited.

He obviously thinks it is the right sealant for the job, and it is what I plan on using.
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post #18 of 23 Old 09-05-2011
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I've been using the 3M 101 sealant. I lift the deck plate, dig out any old, clean everything and re-chaulk. The 101 seems to remain flexible, and doesn't shrink. It's easy to remove.
Leaks have been non-existent since I started this..

I've seen where people have made raised islands where the chainplate passes through the deck....I think Good old boat did a write up..some time ago..good idear...

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post #19 of 23 Old 06-04-2012
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Re: Chainplate Sealing

Old thread but this is what comes up on Google. I'd like to re-bed my chainplates, I don't believe they've leaked but that's because they have a small mountain of ugly dirty silicone sealing them.

Anyway, I have the common through the deck situation so what about UV protection? I don't have anything covering the chainplates, just the plates running through the deck so the small portion at the top would be exposed.
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post #20 of 23 Old 06-04-2012
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Re: Chainplate Sealing

When I resealed my chainplates I used LifeSeal. I quote from their website :

"It provides a durable permanent watertight seal for joints subject to structural movement."

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
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