Chainplate Sealing

Sabreman · #1 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

When we purchased Victoria 6 years ago, the chainplates were leaking and needed resealing, which I did. I can't recall what I used as a sealant. As a result of the bashing that we took in the MD Governor's Cup 3 weeks ago and with Irene, I noticed that we have a new chainplate leak. So it's time to do it again.

Sabre specs LifeCaulk in the owners manual. I have no problem using it but wonder if something better is available. Not different, but better.

Opinions?

SantaSailor · #2 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

I used 3M 5200 on my S2. It lasted for 5 years with no leaks.
I just resealed my chain plates 2 weeks ago. The old came off with a razor blade and mineral spirits. It took 2 hours to remove/reseal.

tommays · #3 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

I have friends at Boatlife from they made the stuff on Long Island AND i use and like the Lifecaulk and Lifeseal and Seafever has stayed leakfree above and below the waterline every place i used a Boatlife product

Barquito · #4 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

What about butyl tape? Will stay flexible longer (I'm told), and will be easier to remove when re-doing. Did I see a blog from a guy on this forum who rebeds all deck hardware every other year? Zoinks.

BubbleheadMd · #5 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

Not just butyl tape, buy Maine Sail's butyl tape. He sells it in a big roll, has step-by-step photo instructions online for the best method to apply it. I plan on buying some this week.

Sabreman · #6 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

Quote:

What about butyl tape?

I too use butyl tape for all my deck hardware and is what Sabre used in the original build. In this case, there is a trough in the deck through which the chainplate passes. The sealant resides in the trough and forms a seal around the chainplate. There is a SS cover (Schaefer Marine Hardware - Detail) over the whole assembly.

I thought about using butyl tape but don't think that it's the best fit for this application because it needs to flow around the trough and chainplate. When bedding deck hardware, it forms a good seal because of the compression cause by mounting bolts. In this case, that compression does not appreciably exist.

SloopJonB · #7 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

Sabreman has the solution for through-deck chainplates (and all other deck hardware). The "trough" he refers to is essentially a rectangular countersink. I have found through experience that countersinking all bolt holes will allow a small reservoir of sealant to collect and act as a recessed O-ring when the fasteners are tightened down. Cutting, sanding, filing or grinding a small facet around the opening for the chainplates will have the same effect, trapping a rectangular "O-ring" of sealant under the cover plate.

I've been doing this for years and never had a failure.

Sabreman · #8 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

Saber counter sinks all holes to accommodate butyl sealant under deck fittings. The process takes extra time, more than doubling the time required to add fittings. But the result is superior. It is attention to details such as these that result in a quality build.

When people write into SailNet about comparing boat quality, it's details such as this that are hard to convey to a new boat owner. Too often the discussion focuses on gear. In my experience, gear is cheap and labor is expensive.

Sorry. I'm off my soapbox.

mitiempo · #9 (**permalink**) 08-31-2011

I agree with Sabreman. It's the hidden details that make the difference.

Butyl does stay flexible. All the original deck hardware and the hull/deck join on my CS27 were butyl sealed when it was built. The butyl squeezed out in the hull/deck joint is the same as new butyl after 34 years.

I am in the middle of re-doing my chainplates and was curious as well. I'm thinking Sika Flex or 4200 may work better than butyl in this case.

SloopJonB · #10 (**permalink**) 09-01-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitiempo

I agree with Sabreman. It's the hidden details that make the difference.

Butyl does stay flexible. All the original deck hardware and the hull/deck join on my CS27 were butyl sealed when it was built. The butyl squeezed out in the hull/deck joint is the same as new butyl after 34 years.

I am in the middle of re-doing my chainplates and was curious as well. I'm thinking Sika Flex or 4200 may work better than butyl in this case.

When I rebuilt my custom quarter tonner in the 90's I used G.E. Silicone II

for my deck hardware and portlights - very cheap, I never had a leak in 9 years and everything remained easily removable. I've been using Sikkens on my current boat and it is not as nice to use but also never had a leak. Don't know about removal though..