Windlass Replacement: Tigres or H3? - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 08-31-2011
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Windlass Replacement: Tigres or H3?

I've been doing some looking and narrowed the replacement field down (so far) to two horizontal contenders: Lewmar H3 and Lofrans Tigres. Pau Hana is an IP38, 41.5' LOA, loaded weight close to 15 tons. Our primary anchor is a 60# Manson Supreme on 200' of 3/8" G4 chain (about 360# total). Secondary anchor is a Fortress FX37 with 50' of 3/8" BBB and 175' of rode.

I know the Tigres is a favorite of a lot of people, but what I'm trying to determine is if it is worth the extra $500+ that it will cost over the Lewmar H3 (plus I can get the wireless remote kit for free right now with the H3). One big concern is whether or not the H3 gypsy will handle our G4 chain. Online info says that it handles 3/8" BBB, but doesn't mention G4/HT. I haven't been able to clarify that yet. The Tigres gypsy handles 3/8" BBB and G4/HT, so that's a plus - But it doesn't include a breaker and some other incidentals/accessories like the H3.

So, any advice / recommendations? What do you have and would you get another?

Thanks all.
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Old 09-01-2011
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I had to make the same decison 2 years ago and bought a Tigres. Why well that is what you see on charter boats out in the Caribbean.

Winch has been good; foot switches not good. on my 4th.
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Old 09-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQA View Post
I had to make the same decison 2 years ago and bought a Tigres. Why well that is what you see on charter boats out in the Caribbean.

Winch has been good; foot switches not good. on my 4th.
Same feelings here -- the windlass is pretty bulletproof; deck mounted foot switches, not so much. The Tigres was on the boat when we bought her, and I've got no idea how long it's been there (but I'm guessing well over 15 yrs.)

I tore mine down last summer and replaced seals, oil, etc. Although it was working well before the rebuild, it runs like a top now.

I did have to replace the inner clutch cone -- it wouldn't come off of the shaft until I took a cut-off wheel to it. After talking to the Imtra folks, this not that uncommon if people fail to use snubber lines; the shock loading can over time cause the bronze clutch cone to deform around the shaft key.
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Old 09-02-2011
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Thanks for the input. After looking things over (and over), we've decided to go with the Tigres as well. Next up is finding a source for the breaker - Our current breaker is only a 60 amp, so I need to replace it. Any suggestions?
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Old 09-02-2011
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Use an ANL fuse. If you are powering from batteries aft a fuse near the windlass and another near the batteries is a good idea.
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Old 09-02-2011
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I would suggest that a breaker is the better option than a fuse. If you are in a survival situation overload the motor and trip the breaker/blow the fuse, which would you rather do reset the breaker or locate the spare fuse and tools open up the area replace the fuse. I know which I would rather have to do which is why I fitted a 150 amp breaker. Not a time to pinch pennies IMHO.
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Old 09-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQA View Post
I would suggest that a breaker is the better option than a fuse. If you are in a survival situation overload the motor and trip the breaker/blow the fuse, which would you rather do reset the breaker or locate the spare fuse and tools open up the area replace the fuse. I know which I would rather have to do which is why I fitted a 150 amp breaker. Not a time to pinch pennies IMHO.
TQA beat me to it. A readily accessable breaker close to the battery bank is a better option.

DWJ: Sizing the breaker will depend on the size of your wiring -- the bigger the wire, the more load it can handle. The breaker's function is to keep the wire from overheating which can lead to a bunch of bad things.

Last edited by PorFin; 09-02-2011 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 09-02-2011
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OK, a little math:

1200W/12v = 100A (bare minimum).

If your previous install had a 60A breaker installed, make sure that the existing wires can handle the increased load -- chances better than even are it won't.
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Old 09-02-2011
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Nope, the existing wiring is coming out too - Its 4AWG cable from the breaker to the solenoid and from the windlass motor to the battery. I have to measure out what the new run will total, so that will determine what cabling I use (guessing about 25' one way so either 2 or 1AWG). The new breaker will be sized appropriately - I'm looking for model/type recommendations and where to buy (the current 60 amp is an old Jay Stuart Haft Co. push/pull type).
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Old 09-03-2011
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An ANL fuse will not blow with a bit of an overload. They will handle over 150% of their rating for 500 seconds - over 8 minutes, and much more for a shorter period of time. They also have a high enough AIC rating (6000 amps) for use on a large battery bank as in this case. I regularly use them for windlasses, thrusters, and engine start circuits and have never had a nuisance blow.


For a 50' total run and 3% voltage drop you are looking at 3/0. For 5% drop 1/0.
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