glue for teak wood.. - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-01-2011 Thread Starter
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glue for teak wood..

Someone told me today that epoxy is not known for being a good glue for teak wood?

What is the best glue for gluing teak to itself?

thx,
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post #2 of 21 Old 09-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groundhog View Post
Someone told me today that epoxy is not known for being a good glue for teak wood?

What is the best glue for gluing teak to itself?

thx,
groundhog
Teak is known for being hard for any glue to stick to due to its oily nature. That said, West System claims that their G-Flex will glue teak and stay stuck. I can't speak directly to that as I have never glued teak with it, but I have used G-Flex for other things and it is a remarkably tough, flexible glue. I do a lot with epoxy and don't use G-Flex for everything, but in high-stress applications I reach for it first.

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post #3 of 21 Old 09-01-2011
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I can't speak to the oil issue, but When I moved the traveler on the C&C 24 to over the cabin, I laminated up blocks of mahogany from 1" boards using West System. Mahogany is dense like Teak, but can't compare "oilyness". I can say that in mahogany, joint is stronger then the wood.

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post #4 of 21 Old 09-01-2011
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If you are going to epoxy teak, wipe all mating surfaces with acetone or laquer thinner immediately before applying the glue. When you clamp the pieces, don't clamp tight, just snug or you'll squeeze out the epoxy - it has great gap filling properties so you don't need a lot of pressure like with resorcinal etc.

I've also had good success with polyurethanes like Gorilla Glue but they can leave a very visible glue line.

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post #5 of 21 Old 09-01-2011
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The guy (he made custom teak accessories) that made my flatware rack used Gorilla Glue.

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post #6 of 21 Old 09-01-2011
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You can use epoxy, Gorilla, or Titebond with teak. The key, as SloopJonB says is to wipe the oil from the wood with acetone or epoxy. I'll add that you should make sure that the wiping cloth is clean and that you don't just rub back and forth with the same area of cloth. Wipe a couple of times rotating the cloth.

I've never had a failure with any of these adhesives through a variety of furniture builds or boat work.

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post #7 of 21 Old 09-01-2011
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I have seen lots of teak repairs done with epoxy that have failed. However I have had great results with resorcinol glue which was a wood boat builders staple before fiberglass boats. It is a waterproof two part glue that is dark purple in color and the glue line is attractive against teak. I made a traveler bridge from 1/4" thick strips of teak laminated together, a bowsprit, companionway doors with veneer edging, and several cabinet doors with veneered edges, all using resorcinol. It is cheap too.

Gary H. Lucas
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post #8 of 21 Old 09-01-2011
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I like Gorilla Glue for teak, However the key is to wipe it down with Acetone first to remove the oil.
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-02-2011
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I've used West epoxy (laminated traveler bridge), Gorilla Glue (small stuff in non-load bearing use), and Titebond III (small and medium stuff in both load-bearing and non-load bearing) for interior and exterior projects. I've had no failures with any of these joints.

I've been pretty anal about using acetone to prep the surfaces before application.
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post #10 of 21 Old 09-02-2011
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We glue teak daily with epoxy ( for 20 some years) and the only times we have had problems is when we have over clamped and starved the joint. We wipe the teak with denatured alcohol. We also sand the teak with at least 80 grit, coarser if we are not striving for a minimal glue line. I have had covering boards that have split end to end over 10' 1/4" away from the glue line. When we glue up frames for doors and windows and other trim wher we are gluing end grain to end grain we usually use super glue. ( the medium viscosity kind)

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