Hull to deck joint question - SailNet Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 6 Old 09-02-2011 Thread Starter
美國佬
 
willyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 217
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Hull to deck joint question

I looked at a 1964 Whitby 25 folkboat this evening and noticed delamination (hollow sounding) in the side deck adjacent to some areas where there was deterioration where the hull and deck meet. This joint had a section that protruded and was covered with a rubber strip that serves as a rub rail. It wasn't clear to me whether the lip that protruded was part of the deck or an extension of the hull, or a third strip of material. I would like to know a) what the problem I found is and b) whether it's worth trying to repair. I've wanted to buy a folkboat for some time but don't want this one if it's a goner. Seemed like a really solid boat otherwise, though in need of attention in several places.

Here are the photos:










1964 Whitby 25
Severna Park, Maryland
willyd is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 Old 09-03-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 515
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
 
normally in that type of joint, there's a lip on both the deck an hull.
On cheap boats it's often just stapled together with all waterproofing being managed by the rub rail. On better boats they'll caulk the joint, then screw together and cover with the rub rail. On really well built boats, they'll have an aluminum or stainless channel that fits snugly over the lips, and fasteners go through that and the lips, then it's covered with the rub. On some boats, the only reason for the lip is for attachment of the rub rail.

I can't see it perfectly, but it looks like the lip itself is fine, and just the rub rail pulled away. Check to see if the lip is there on both deck and hull, if it is then possibly the most you'll need is a new rub rail or if it just pulled away, reattach
looks like it may have did it's job and rubbed up against something hard enough to deform it.
merc2dogs is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 6 Old 09-03-2011
Senior Member
 
tommays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,296
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
On a Cal 29 the joint is set in goop and reinforced form the inside with fiberglass tape and resin

My starboard side was broken open pretty badly and required good bit of work that was not costly just time consuming and messy



I had to open and clean the joint and set in new epoxy from the outside



Then grind away the old tape inside

Like any project you have to access the total picture and decide how deep you want to get involved OR find a better boat



And then just re-tape the joint

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
tommays is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 6 Old 09-04-2011 Thread Starter
美國佬
 
willyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 217
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Thanks. I need to go take another look at it in daylight and see if indeed this is just a fiberglass rubrail or something integral to the hull, which is what it initially looked like, but which struck me as weird.

1964 Whitby 25
Severna Park, Maryland
willyd is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 6 Old 10-19-2011 Thread Starter
美國佬
 
willyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 217
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by merc2dogs View Post
normally in that type of joint, there's a lip on both the deck an hull.
On cheap boats it's often just stapled together with all waterproofing being managed by the rub rail. On better boats they'll caulk the joint, then screw together and cover with the rub rail. On really well built boats, they'll have an aluminum or stainless channel that fits snugly over the lips, and fasteners go through that and the lips, then it's covered with the rub. On some boats, the only reason for the lip is for attachment of the rub rail.

I can't see it perfectly, but it looks like the lip itself is fine, and just the rub rail pulled away. Check to see if the lip is there on both deck and hull, if it is then possibly the most you'll need is a new rub rail or if it just pulled away, reattach
looks like it may have did it's job and rubbed up against something hard enough to deform it.
Just for the record, Merc2dogs was spot-on in his description and analysis. It looks like a 2 foot section got ground away from contact with a dock or something. The white thing hanging loose is a vinyl rubrail cover that goes all around the fiberglass lip, and there is caulking in between the vinyl cover and where the lip and deck meet.

My attempt at repairing this was to sand and clean the area, then clamp and screw in a 2" wide piece of plywood (covered with tape) under the lip to serve as a shelf under the gap of missing material, then glass in a piece of foam the same size as the section that was missing. I also clamped another piece of plywood (covered in plastic) outboard to serve as a form and secure the new piece while the fiberglass cured. This would have been an easy job if the boat had been out of the water, but it seems to have worked.

1964 Whitby 25
Severna Park, Maryland
willyd is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 6 Old 10-19-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 515
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
 
Sounds like a good fix!
merc2dogs is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hull to deck joint separation CalEnron Gear & Maintenance 3 01-05-2010 11:24 AM
Sealing the hull and deck joint SSBN506 Gear & Maintenance 3 03-16-2009 07:15 PM
Deck to Hull Joint voice3 Sailboat Design and Construction 9 11-03-2008 05:10 PM
hull deck joint ArgleBargle Sailboat Design and Construction 5 09-28-2008 07:45 PM
Split deck cap and leaking hull/deck joint alaskaboy Gear & Maintenance 2 01-04-2008 09:25 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome