Heat shrink tube for wire rope - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-03-2011 Thread Starter
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Heat shrink tube for wire rope

Preparing to assemble an internal outhaul. Using stranded ss wire from the clew to the aft block. Having trouble locating heat shrink tube to cover the crimp sleeve or ferrule. It seems to be thicker than shrink tube used for electric wire applications.

Anyone know of a source?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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Check electrical supply shops, can get heat shrink tube to at least 2" diameter

Also, harbor freight sells it in various packs, either small boxes individually sized or in 'kits' with many sizes.
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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Electrical shrink comes in different thicknesses. Ancor is thicker than some other brands.

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post #4 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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Um, are you sure you want to heat shrink this connection? Don't forget about the risk of crevice corrosion...
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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I was wondering about crevice corrosion when I responded too.


An option for really large shrink tube, is plastic bottles. Anything that is made of the same plastic that 2 liter pop bottles are made of (PET, nearly all stiff clear plastic, and virtually all beverage bottles) will shrink when heated. So will many other types, but that plastic is so widely used that I always grab that type rather than experiment with others if I need to wrap something.

Many uses for that on a boat or in a car. Can make light duty brackets by either shrinking it around what you want to hold, or carving a form from wood and shrinking it. Also have made adapters for round to square ducts by carving the required shape and shrinking a 2 liter around it.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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if you cover the swege it will corrode but if you need to prevent chafe then use silicone rigging tape. it self fuses to itself can be removed to check for corrosion and replace easily with no heat needed LifeSafe SOS Silicone Tape

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post #7 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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Quote:
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if you cover the swege it will corrode but if you need to prevent chafe then use silicone rigging tape. it self fuses to itself can be removed to check for corrosion and replace easily with no heat needed LifeSafe SOS Silicone Tape
When I make up lifelines, I cover the joint between the swage (actually crimped) connector and the vinyl coating on the wire with a 2" piece of shrink tube. (Yes, I know about uncoated lifelines but I prefer the look and feel of coated wire)

I have found that joint to be the place corrosion starts in the wire if the coating is not cracked or abraded through anywhere. I have never had a problem with corrosion starting under the shrink tube - its whole purpose is to preclude moisture which is essential for crevice corrosion..

With all due respect, are the previous responses re: crevice corrosion based on experience or on a theoretical analysis of the situation?

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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Look at any old plastic covered lifeline. Moisture is very hard to keep out. Once it enters anywhere it can travel along the twist of the wire. This is the reason the wire will corrode in 8 or 10 years. Meanwhile how many boats that are 25 or 30 years old have the original rigging wire well past its due date. Except for some corrosion near the swages it looks pretty good.

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post #9 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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Quote:
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Look at any old plastic covered lifeline. Moisture is very hard to keep out. Once it enters anywhere it can travel along the twist of the wire. This is the reason the wire will corrode in 8 or 10 years. Meanwhile how many boats that are 25 or 30 years old have the original rigging wire well past its due date. Except for some corrosion near the swages it looks pretty good.
Miti - The highlighted part of your comment is the whole point of my post - the moisture gets into lifeline wire between the swage and the coating on the wire. Putting heat shrink over this seam prevents that and keeps the wire in good shape.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-03-2011
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I see your point. As long as the plastic is not cracked anywhere it should remain dry. I prefer my lifelines visible and un-coated.

The original poster is dealing with bare wire with a nicro press fitting or similar at the end and sealing a portion of the wire is an invitation to corrosion under the heat shrink if moisture is present.
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