Teak toe rail repair - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 10-08-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 226
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 6
dillybar is on a distinguished road
Teak toe rail repair

Ive got an older Beneteau with a teak toe rail that has begun to split at a cleat.
The cleat that sits on top is still rock solid so I'm assuming the through holes for the cleat bolts weakened the rail in that area or let water in? The rail has a joint about a foot from the cleat and the split is now about 1/4" at the end.
My thoughts were to glue and clamp the rail back together and install a series of countersunk screws then cap with dowels and sand flush.
Having never seen the toe rail off I started wondering if there may be a locating channel cut into the bottom of the rail that I should know about before I start drilling. Or better repair ideas?
Any ideas from people that have done this type of repair before I start in would be appreciated.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 10-08-2011
CalebD's Avatar
Tartan 27' owner
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,616
Thanks: 4
Thanked 92 Times in 85 Posts
Rep Power: 7
CalebD will become famous soon enough
If you go with countersunk screws then get teak bungs for plugging the screw heads.
__________________
"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen

Everybody has one:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 10-08-2011
mitiempo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,282
Thanks: 0
Thanked 79 Times in 70 Posts
Rep Power: 8
mitiempo will become famous soon enough mitiempo will become famous soon enough
Caleb is right. Dowels are never used as they leave end grain exposed. Bungs are cut from a flat board and can be purchased at West Marine if you don't have the cutter to make them.
__________________
Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 10-08-2011
rugosa's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: In a strange land
Posts: 517
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Rep Power: 4
rugosa is on a distinguished road
Depending on the boat size, teak dimensions and profile, you should consider counter boring to accommodate through-bolts rather than screws. If it is midship there is considerable curve and pressure/load that will continue to work the joint. Through bolting is normally a better long term fix. Also, epoxy would be better than glue
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 10-08-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 226
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 6
dillybar is on a distinguished road
Great points guys, as usual the details make the difference between professional and crap

Last edited by dillybar; 10-10-2011 at 02:18 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 10-08-2011
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hypoluxo, FL
Posts: 96
Thanks: 19
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 4
jerryRiggin is on a distinguished road
Quick caveat-Careful to get epoxy that is not discolored by the sun.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Teak Rub-rail hubblect Gear & Maintenance 5 06-17-2011 11:16 PM
Repair Cracked Teak Toe Rail casey1999 Gear & Maintenance 15 02-04-2011 11:52 AM
Help removing teak toe rail saladpe Gear & Maintenance 10 11-01-2010 07:35 PM
Teak toe rail repair drlove Gear & Maintenance 1 08-26-2009 07:25 PM
teak rub rail adamlaw Gear & Maintenance 2 12-30-2007 11:32 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:00 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.