leaky hatch, project? - Page 2 - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #11  
Old 10-17-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 515
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
merc2dogs is on a distinguished road
can sometimes remove the plugs by drilling a pilot, then threading a screw into them. Other times, can chain drill a few holes in them and pop them out with a chisel
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #12  
Old 10-31-2011
flo617's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Francisco bay
Posts: 132
Thanks: 7
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 5
flo617 is on a distinguished road
Hatch is off!

Hi,

Thank you all for your help, I took the hatch off yesterday. It all went very easily. I covered the hole with a piece of white plastic sign cut to the hatch's dimensions, screwed and duck taped on the deck. It kind of looks better than the real hatch! This should keep cats from using my boat as a playground and keep most of the potential moisture from dripping in for now.


Most of the wood around the hatch was rotten and it didn't take much effort to begin removing it, especially around the corners. It doesn't look like the damage extends too far though. I'm no wood expert but I think the core is balsa, at least on this part of the boat.

I will probably dig a little further and glass it all before drilling completely through the deck and put in bolts instead of screws. At least this is my current idea unless someone here advises otherwise.

Another thing that did strike me was that on the port side, the bottom of the side has a piece of heavy cloth that didn't seem very well glassed in with some large gaps and obviously not much resin on it (see picture). Also, there is a good void between the plastic liner and the bottom of the cabin. There is a piece of something (too dark to see) that finally unite them somewhere down there and is probably a backing structure for the handrail. The curious thing is that there is no void of the starboard side. The wood trim on the forward bulkheads (where the hatch is located) show a little asymmetry too, so I assume that this dates back from the building of the boat.

Any comment on that?

Thank you,

Florent
Attached Thumbnails
leaky hatch, project?-hatch_cut1.jpg   leaky hatch, project?-hatch_cut2.jpg   leaky hatch, project?-hatch_cut3.jpg   leaky hatch, project?-hatch_cut4.jpg   leaky hatch, project?-hatch_cut5.jpg  

Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #13  
Old 10-31-2011
SloopJonB's Avatar
Senior Moment Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 10,653
Thanks: 56
Thanked 48 Times in 45 Posts
Rep Power: 4
SloopJonB will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by flo617 View Post
Most of the wood around the hatch was rotten and it didn't take much effort to begin removing it, especially around the corners. It doesn't look like the damage extends too far though. I'm no wood expert but I think the core is balsa, at least on this part of the boat.
It looks like balsa - I don't know of any other core material that looks like that so....

Quote:
Originally Posted by flo617 View Post
I will probably dig a little further and glass it all before drilling completely through the deck and put in bolts instead of screws. At least this is my current idea unless someone here advises otherwise.
Get a "wing" or skinny rabbeting cutter for your router and use it to cut back the balsa to good wood. I've also seen recommendations to simply use a bent piece of coathanger in a drill. After everything is cleaned up, pack it full of thickened epoxy, just like potting a fastener hole. Make sure the epoxy is THICK - like peanut butter so it won't slump out before curing. Running a strip of packing tape over the edge has worked for me - it peels away easily after things cure. Sand everything to clean it up and you're done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flo617 View Post
Another thing that did strike me was that on the port side, the bottom of the side has a piece of heavy cloth that didn't seem very well glassed in with some large gaps and obviously not much resin on it (see picture). Also, there is a good void between the plastic liner and the bottom of the cabin. There is a piece of something (too dark to see) that finally unite them somewhere down there and is probably a backing structure for the handrail. The curious thing is that there is no void of the starboard side. The wood trim on the forward bulkheads (where the hatch is located) show a little asymmetry too, so I assume that this dates back from the building of the boat. Any comment on that? Thank you. Florent
Inner liners don't fit tight against the hull or deck except on the very highest quality boats in my experience. If you want to improve this area somewhat and the separate pieces are not held rigidly by other structure, pack the gap full of wetted out glass and clamp the liner and deck together. Do this before filling the edge of the deck core so you can do the finish work all at once.

I had the same situation where a small hatch had been added over the head on my boat. I did the above procedures, cleaned it up and then filled and finished it to a level that could be painted and didn't require any further trim to cover up the edges.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #14  
Old 10-31-2011
rugosa's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: In a strange land
Posts: 505
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 3
rugosa is on a distinguished road
From staining on bulkhead looks like it has leaked for quite a while. Definitely looks like end grain balsa core. Since you have the job started dig out the balsa until there is no more black or wet material, air dry the cavity, then whip up some resin with chopped strand, pack it in. You could also prefab a board, maybe a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood 4-6 wide and cut to the opening, fasten a wider strip on the end grain, cover the strip with masking tape or mold release and clamp it in place against the filler. Alternate material would be aluminum channel or square tube, but still needs to be waxed/mold released. It will mold the surface, be better looking if exposed permanently and avoid grinding and filling. Only problem is you probably will need to do front & back first and then the two sides in order to accommodate the clamps.

Filling the void will solidify the bond between the deck and subdeck, and give a solid fastening base as well. You mentioned bolting the hatch- if you are installing a new alloy framed hatch (Lewmar, Bomar, etc.) be careful not to overtighten as it will distort frame. I think they are designed to be screwed in, but for offshore concerns bolting makes sense.

The void between the underside of the deck and the top side of the liner is typical. Once you have finished your new trip should cover the void.

Welcome to the 'other' fun part of sailing
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #15  
Old 10-31-2011
hellosailor's Avatar
Plausible Deniability
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,546
Thanks: 2
Thanked 82 Times in 80 Posts
Rep Power: 10
hellosailor has a spectacular aura about hellosailor has a spectacular aura about
flo, the plugs are also called "bungs" and new ones should be available through woodworking or sailing catalogues and stores. Some folks prefer to get a plug-cutting drill bit and make their own, but I don't think that would be worth the bother for you.

Those voids definitely need to be cleaned out, all the way back to solid dry material, and filled. You can find articles on that archived at the West Systems (epoxy) aka Gougeon Brothers web site, they provide generous free advice and technical support to anyone who calls, even in the planning stage before you've bought anything from anyone.

You might want to look into deck coring problems a bit more before you get into the project, though. If you are lucky, it is only rotted/delaminting in a limited area, within some inches of the hatch. If the damage is more extensive--it can become a huge project. A tap hammer or a moisture meter are the usual tools to figure that out, although since you have access at the hatch, you might try simply ramming in a length of wire rod (heavy coat hangar) to see how far it penetrates, and how far back the damage goes.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #16  
Old 11-14-2011
flo617's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Francisco bay
Posts: 132
Thanks: 7
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 5
flo617 is on a distinguished road
I pretty much finished filling the core void. The rot didn't extend too far, at worst it was around 5 inches in one corner. I did quite a sloppy job I'm afraid and got some epoxy rain down on me but I guess that's how you learn. It's all filled up though and I hope that the repair will last. I am rushing before the rainy season settles in and I only have week-ends to work on it.

I guess my concern was less with the liner void and more with the big cloth that is not so well laminated and kind of dry. Also, is there a way to know what composes layers of the laminate (roving, chopped fibers etc...) by just looking at it?
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply

Tags
columbia , columbia29 , hatch , leak , leaky


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Leaky Keel itsme6582 Gear & Maintenance 8 03-28-2010 10:06 AM
leaky hatch gaskets. eskimo1941 General Discussion (sailing related) 7 12-15-2009 02:05 PM
Leaky hatch. Perithead Gear & Maintenance 1 03-23-2008 09:32 AM
leaky bomar deck hatch on 29 mk 2 hiatus C & C 1 09-24-2006 01:45 PM
leaky shaft log captbruce Gear & Maintenance 1 09-06-2002 04:44 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:11 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.