Rule Mate 2000 Bilge Pump sticking on?

[L124C]

Just bought a RM 2000 pump which contains the float* switch and pump in one unit. I like the fact that the switch is covered, as I always thought my old float switch was vulnerable. However, I now see several customer reviews that say the pump (and those of several other similar models) sticks on, after the bilge is dry. IMO, a bilge pump is a safety device. If in fact, this problem exists, it should not be tolerated. As I understand it, a centrifugal pump will destroy itself if allowed to run dry. In addition, at 8.4 Amps (in the case of the 2000) it will drain batteries in a hurry without the motor running or shore power. I've emailed several vendors, asking: what the problem is; has it been fixed; and if not, why are they still selling the pumps? I will post their response. Has anyone else had this problem with Rule pumps?

*When I ordered the pump, I was under the impression the "float switch" was electronic. According to the info on the box, it seems that the one I received consists of a mechanical float and electronic monitoring of resistance on the impeller.

[jerryRiggin]

In my experience no matter which bulge pump you install on which battery you should install at least two bulge pumps on at least two separate batteries. Learned that the hard way.

[Leocat66]

We have had your exact same problem with that same pump. It worked just fine until the warranty expired. Re-wired it to an external float switch, which has worked fine for the last few months. Will not buy another like it.

[kd3pc]

for the most part the Rule is not the rule it used to be, cost is still a premium, but the pump quality is NOT. After having several fail as you did, I went to Johnson pumps with WaterWitch electronic switch and that has solved that. At least I am not replacing a pump every six months any longer.

The electronic switch takes a bit to install correctly, but so far no free run, no sticking on (or off) and with the Johnson pumps, I can keep a spare pump that fits multiple housings in a pinch..

[L124C]

Originally Posted by kd3pc

for the most part the Rule is not the rule it used to be, cost is still a premium, but the pump quality is NOT. After having several fail as you did, I went to Johnson pumps with Water Witch electronic switch and that has solved that. At least I am not replacing a pump every six months any longer.The electronic switch takes a bit to install correctly, but so far no free run, no sticking on (or off) and with the Johnson pumps, I can keep a spare pump that fits multiple housings in a pinch..

Not encouraging news regarding Rule!
I used the Water Witch switch on my maintenance bilge pump several years ago. My old diesel sits mid ships, directly over the bilge. Though it's not a big leaker, it apparently leaks enough oil/fuel into the bilge to coat the sensors on the Water witch, so the switch would stick on. I understand Water Witch has overcome this problem, but have not verified it. Ironically, this Water Witch situation, led to the wires getting ripped out of the Rule (long, weird story!), which had functioned perfectly for over 8 years. Now...you tell me I'm replacing it with junk! The fact that Rule would release a product with this apparent defect doesn't say much for their R&D!

[L124C]

Originally Posted by jerryRiggin

In my experience no matter which bulge pump you install on which battery you should install at least two bulge pumps on at least two separate batteries. Learned that the hard way.

A little off topic, but sounds like a story others (namely....ME!) can learn from. Did you post about it elsewhere? If not, please tell it here.

[ahab211]

Had the same problem but bought the 500 manual as auto on the 2000 wasn't crucial. Got the old one home and the float freed up so I keep it for a backup. I, too was surprised how much charge the 2000 used compared to the 500. I just use it to empty the bilge on my skiff and use a solar charger.

[L124C]

Originally Posted by ahab211

Had the same problem but bought the 500 manual as auto on the 2000 wasn't crucial. Got the old one home and the float freed up so I keep it for a backup. I, too was surprised how much charge the 2000 used compared to the 500. I just use it to empty the bilge on my skiff and use a solar charger.

"Auto on the 2000 wasn't crucial"? Please explain. The majority of pleasure craft that sink, go down in their slip. Here's one that went down in my marina last week. The owner had been on her the day before she sank! The bill to pump out her tanks and bring a crane in to float her...$60,000! The value of a 2000 GPH pump connected to shore power with an auto switch...Priceless!

[ahab211]

As I said I used the pump on my skiff which has styrofoam flotation! I have an automatic pump on my powerboat but only a manual pump on my C@C 24' sailboat. Hooking up my auto bilge pump on the sailboat would be a good spring project! Also, good insurance is a must!

[L124C]

Originally Posted by kd3pc

for the most part the Rule is not the rule it used to be, cost is still a premium, but the pump quality is NOT. After having several fail as you did, I went to Johnson pumps with Water Witch electronic switch and that has solved that. At least I am not replacing a pump every six months any longer. The electronic switch takes a bit to install correctly, but so far no free run, no sticking on (or off) and with the Johnson pumps, I can keep a spare pump that fits multiple housings in a pinch..

Sent the Rule back and took your advice. Ordered a Johnson 2200 GPM and Johnson's electronic switch. 200 more GPH, and about $70 less than the Rule. I think the switch slips into a mounting slot on the pump. Still haven't heard back from West Marine, or Jamestown's "customer service" regarding the Rule. Guess they don't want to deal with pesky questions like: Why are you still selling these pumps when you know they are junk! What was tricky about installing the Water Witch?