Contemplating a drive line overhaul - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 48 Old 11-02-2011
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EH... Sorry you found the water.. You may want to keep this in mind, assuming your boat is like mine. The top of the rudder post if covered with a screw in type access hatch (4" round I used) condensation will form under the hatch and drip into the post which is hollow all the waaaaay down. Since you carried yours home, burped it, and plan to keep it warm. I'm afraid the water won't dry out unless some means to dry it are used. Which is why I'm thinking lots of holes vacuum bag and vac pump (HVAC people have them ) Water evaporates very quickly at low atmospheric pressure. Jus sayin...

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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Last edited by deniseO30; 11-02-2011 at 07:51 PM.
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post #32 of 48 Old 11-02-2011
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Nicely done! I'm confident that you will be pleased with the PSS shaft seal - no more messing with stuffing boxes, and the seal (properly installed) will NOT fret your pretty new prop shaft like packing will!

I installed a PSS about 4 years ago, and have had excellent results.

A couple of cautions, though:

a) you need to hook either a "vent" hose to that nipple on the stationary then lead well above the water line, or plumb in water supply to that nipple from your raw water system to act as a flushing line for the seal. Mechanical seal flushing lines are found on virtually all seawater pumps on ships - keeps the seal faces lubricated. If that seal runs dry, it is toast!

and b) read the manual - the rubber bellows is supposed to be replaced every 6 years. Cheap insurance (unfortunately, the new bellows has to be slid over the end of the shaft - and you know what THAT means!) - if that bellows were to fail, it would be really tough to keep the ocean out.

All that said, use plenty of anti-sieze when assembling your shaft coupling and set screws! Good luck on the re-install!
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post #33 of 48 Old 11-02-2011
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Almost 4 yrs on my PSS too! love it!

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post

Almost $1K worth of parts in this picture.

NEVER forget - it's a B.O.A.T. (Break Out Another Thousand)!!
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post #35 of 48 Old 11-02-2011
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Hey,

That ring is indeed the lower bearing. There should be an upper bearing. It may be stuck to the boat where the rudder post passes through. It goes above the rudder quadrant (as you can see in the pic)





I put a bead of 5200 around my rudder post when I had the rudder out.

Barry
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Deep Blue C, 2002 C&C 110
Mt. Sinai, NY

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Last edited by BarryL; 11-02-2011 at 08:57 PM.
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post #36 of 48 Old 11-02-2011 Thread Starter
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And now for a confession...

While installing the prop shaft;
The prop shaft needed to be slid in from the rear, because space was too tight between the engine and the shaft log. I therefore needed to install the bellows and graphite seal before installing the prop shaft. No problem there.

Then I needed to install the stainless seal over the shaft. No problem with this either - I sanded the edges of the shaft and keyway with 600 grit paper, coated the shaft with Dawn, slipped the seal and rubber rings over the end and up against the bellows. (I still haven't used any of the set screws yet).

Then I needed to install the coupling. I coated the inside of the coupling and the keyway with Tef-gel, and slid the end over the shaft. Here things go awry.. While I could get the coupling on the shaft, I could not fully seat it. I can't fit a hammer between the coupling and the shaft to tap it. So, I put a block of wood (1"pine) between the coupling and the transmission, to act as a shock absorber. Then, I tapped on a block of wood on the aft end of the propeller shaft to push the shaft into the coupling. I was basically hammering the shaft forward into the coupling, and against the block of wood, which was held in place by the transmission flange.

Well, lightly tapping didn't get the shaft into the coupling, so I tapped harder with a bigger hammer - for about 15 minutes. The coupling is still about 1/8 inch from where it needs to be, and I am frustrated.

My plan, when I get back to the boat, is to use a series of wooden blocks to brace the coupling against the transmission, and NOT the flange. Then to heat the coupling with a propane torch, for about 10 min to heat, and hopefully expand the coupling. Finally, what any red-blooded-american-boy would do, I plan to use a bigger hammer!

Thoughts? Ideas? Solutions???
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post #37 of 48 Old 11-02-2011 Thread Starter
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Thanks Barry!

That pic helps a LOT. The upper bearing is still in place, as I have not removed the quadrant. Hopefully, I will only have to worry about the lower bearing... in the spring of 2012
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post #38 of 48 Old 11-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
And now for a confession...

While installing the prop shaft;
The prop shaft needed to be slid in from the rear, because space was too tight between the engine and the shaft log. I therefore needed to install the bellows and graphite seal before installing the prop shaft. No problem there.

Then I needed to install the stainless seal over the shaft. No problem with this either - I sanded the edges of the shaft and keyway with 600 grit paper, coated the shaft with Dawn, slipped the seal and rubber rings over the end and up against the bellows. (I still haven't used any of the set screws yet).

Then I needed to install the coupling. I coated the inside of the coupling and the keyway with Tef-gel, and slid the end over the shaft. Here things go awry.. While I could get the coupling on the shaft, I could not fully seat it. I can't fit a hammer between the coupling and the shaft to tap it. So, I put a block of wood (1"pine) between the coupling and the transmission, to act as a shock absorber. Then, I tapped on a block of wood on the aft end of the propeller shaft to push the shaft into the coupling. I was basically hammering the shaft forward into the coupling, and against the block of wood, which was held in place by the transmission flange.

Well, lightly tapping didn't get the shaft into the coupling, so I tapped harder with a bigger hammer - for about 15 minutes. The coupling is still about 1/8 inch from where it needs to be, and I am frustrated.

My plan, when I get back to the boat, is to use a series of wooden blocks to brace the coupling against the transmission, and NOT the flange. Then to heat the coupling with a propane torch, for about 10 min to heat, and hopefully expand the coupling. Finally, what any red-blooded-american-boy would do, I plan to use a bigger hammer!

Thoughts? Ideas? Solutions???

Eherlihy,

STOP HAMMERING. Something is wrong, most likely key bound. Pull the coupling off and start over. It should NOT fit that tight. This is a light tap or press fit...
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Last edited by Maine Sail; 11-03-2011 at 07:09 PM.
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post #39 of 48 Old 11-03-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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STOP HAMMERING. Something is wrong, most likely key bound. Pull the coupling off and start over. It should NOT fit that tight. This is a light tap or press fit...
I don't like the idea of hammering against the bearings either. My hope is that the block of pine is buying me some slack.

When I picked up the shaft and coupling, the guy at the shop (never heard of Tef-Gel, BTW) suggested that I heat the coupling for an hour or two in an oven, and place an icepack on the end of the shaft. While I understand why and what he was suggesting, it was not feasible for a boat that is 45 miles away from home in a boat yard. (no fridge, and no oven since she's been decommissioned for the winter)

Also, I know that the key is not bound. I can move the key in and out along the keyway between the coupling and the shaft.

The real problem is that there is no room to fit a wooden / rubber hammer between the transmission coupling and the shaft coupling. There might be 4" total in which to work.
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post #40 of 48 Old 11-03-2011
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How's bout a slide hammer like they use on body work?

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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