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  #41  
Old 11-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
How's bout a slide hammer like they use on body work?
Thanks D- but I can not see how that would help.

I need to press the shaft forward (which I can do with the hammer - which I will stop) or press the coupling aft. There is NO ROOM between the transmission and the nice-new-shiny PSS Shaft seal to fit a hammer, even a slide hammer, to push the coupling aft.
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Getting back onto the water after undergoing knee surgery.
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  #42  
Old 11-04-2011
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Some comments.

1. The ring in your rudder picture is not the rudder bearing, its just a spacer. The lower rudder bearing is up in the bottom end of the rudder tube.

2. With all that water in the rudder, I would be concerned about delamination in the rudder and possible corrosion of the internal structural grid. I would check this out before putting it back.

3. I agree to stop hammering. Sounds like the fit between the coupling and shaft is too tight. Take it apart (if you can) and take the shaft and coupling back to the propeller shop and have then fix things.
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  #43  
Old 11-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
Thanks D- but I can not see how that would help.

I need to press the shaft forward (which I can do with the hammer - which I will stop) or press the coupling aft. There is NO ROOM between the transmission and the nice-new-shiny PSS Shaft seal to fit a hammer, even a slide hammer, to push the coupling aft.
Eherlihy,

Here's what I suspect;

1- That coupling has already been on and off the shaft a few times when they fitted it and faced it. It did go on/off without "heavy" hammering so that means something has happened between then & now.

2- It is possible you dropped the shaft on the coupling end and caused a burr that was enough to cause issues.

3- You possibly did not start the shaft into the coupling STRAIGHT and created a ridge & pushed it or created a burr. Even a few ten thou will cause any sort of defect in the coupling or shaft to bind up as this is an interference press fit.

4- REMOVE the coupling by pressing it off with a socket and some bolts. Check the outside of the shaft and inside of the coupling for any defects.

5- The Tef-Gel may have helped cause this issue as it "lubed" the shaft and allowed the burr or defect created by starting crooked to worsen until it completely bound up.

6- It is CRITICAL that the coupling be started 100% straight. Bolting the coupling to the gear box can help get it started and with a LIGHT tapping with a wood mallet, lead hammer or brass hammer you can get it to start easily. Once it is started straight it should simply "tap" into place. Use TWO people...
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Last edited by Maine Sail; 11-04-2011 at 03:35 PM.
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  #44  
Old 11-08-2011
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Just letting you know that I am away from the boat for two weeks... I will post again when I can get back, and remove the coupling.
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  #45  
Old 11-20-2011
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The solution was about 7 min with this:


I used a 19mm socket to press the coupling off the shaft, as has been written about elsewhere. Once it was off I examined it for any scratches, burrs, or other defects. There were none to be found.

I then heated the coupling to about 150ļ with the heat gun, and tried to re-install it. I was shocked when it SLID on by hand!

I also noticed that the starboard rear motor mount is way out of adjustment. I will probably replace them all and be done with it.

Last edited by eherlihy; 11-21-2011 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 05-07-2012
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Re: Contemplating a drive line overhaul

Before;


After;

Note that the batteries are not yet re-installed for the season.

New motor mounts;
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  #47  
Old 05-07-2012
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Re: Contemplating a drive line overhaul

Nice!

Looks great and well done.

Barry
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  #48  
Old 05-07-2012
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Re: Contemplating a drive line overhaul

Thank you Barry.

I spend the time to photograph and document this stuff to give other O'day 34/35 owners (other brand / model boat owners too!) some ideas, and the courage, to try and tackle some this stuff themselves. If I can do it, anyone can.

Here is what the engine looked like when I bought her in the fall of 2010;

The cooling hose is held clear of that old Motorola 50A alternator by Zip Ties!
The old style M25 alternator bracket! Which explains the new timing case cover.
The coolant pump leaked like a sieve. (See that green fuzzy stuff - coolant!)
That T on the coolant elbow was full of air, so the temp never read accurately.
The wiring was a rats nest, everything was re-wired, but not to ABYC color code, nor was it documented.
the seal around the crankshaft was cracked and leaked. It sprayed a light coating motor oil over everything.
I had 2 surveyors look at the boat and neither one thought anything was amiss...


Hot water heater was plumbed into the main cooling circuit, with big honkin' hoses.
Wooden backing plate NPT/NPS fittings and a strainer on the undersized through hull. I couldn't reach that through hull handle either.

Sorry to see that your stem head fitting cracked. Let us know how you get it repaired.

Last edited by eherlihy; 05-07-2012 at 09:53 PM.
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