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post #11 of 36 Old 10-26-2011
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ahem.. there are varying densities in insulation Thick is not always the answer. Large "walk in" commercial boxes are mostly 3-4" thick. The 1st 2" is the most important

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post #12 of 36 Old 10-26-2011
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True, but when commercial "walk in" units are built they don't have to be run off a battery bank that requires the engine running for charging.

For a boat to have an efficient box in an area where the daytime temps reach the 90's every day and the water temp is in the high 70's or 80's I would go with 4" minimum and more is better if using a closed cell foam for insulation. There are vacuum panels available but they are several times more expensive than the refrigeration unit itself is.

More information on box insulation here Selecting Equipment

The main page is here KollmannMarine Boat Refrigeration Specialist

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post #13 of 36 Old 10-26-2011
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I've been on Kollman's site Brian.it's..ok... Some people just can't get 4" around the boxes.

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #14 of 36 Old 10-26-2011
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ahem.. there are varying densities in insulation Thick is not always the answer. Large "walk in" commercial boxes are mostly 3-4" thick. The 1st 2" is the most important
I think the big problem with small freezer/refrigerators, like one sees on a sailboat, is that they have such a such a high surface to volume ratio. The -80˚C chest freezer in the lab next door to mine (they do a lot of protien/enzyme analysis) has no more than 3 or 4 inches of insulation on the sides, but the bottom probably has 8 inches or a foot.

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post #15 of 36 Old 10-27-2011
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And it is not run off a battery bank.

When power is available easily from the wall plug power consumption is meaningless.

If you want a similar unit on a boat with it cycling one third of the time or less you need the insulation.

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And it is not run off a battery bank.

When power is available easily from the wall plug power consumption is meaningless....
The point is that even maintaining a 100+˚C temperature differential isn't all that hard to accomplish with only a few inches of insulation. Granted, fancy lab freezers like that at quite pricey ($5K to $10K), so they probably have pretty fancy insulation. But (as I recall) they don't draw that much more electricity than your standard household freezer (once they get down to -80˚C), and they still only cycle about 50% of the time. The trick is keeping them full and keeping them closed.

I will grant you that the more insulation a freezer/refrigerator has, the better. But, once there is more than four inches or so, particularly around the sides, I doubt that you really gain a lot by adding more insulation.

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post #17 of 36 Old 10-27-2011
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Bottom at the very least should be 4" The lid is always ignored and most have sloppy fit, no insulation and no gaskets. I've looked at enough boats to know this as fact.

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #18 of 36 Old 10-27-2011
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the major issue with insulation is the material its made from. the cheaper quality walk in boxes use styrofoam insulation while the higher quality boxes I install use urethane insulation very similiar to the expanding foam slod by the major home improvement and hardware stores. Plastic bags and other items cam be used to make your own custom insulated panels for either a new or existing box to insulate it. Styrofoam insulation has a lower R factor than urethane for the same thickness. The majority of boxes we sell are 4" thick urethane. Insulation materials utilize air gaps to provide the isulating effect. Avoid using fiberglass insulation because when it gets wet it loses all inuslating qualities.
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post #19 of 36 Old 10-27-2011
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Well we've heard from everyone but the OP lol

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #20 of 36 Old 10-27-2011 Thread Starter
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Well we've heard from everyone but the OP lol
Sorry! I'm absorbing information posted here and elsewhere. I'll post some responses and further questions soon enough.

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