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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2003
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Cetol...off!

Warning some chemical strippers eat fiberglass
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2010
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I have removed all the cetol from my Hans Christian quite a few times over the years. A heat gun and a scraper (for flat surfaces), green scrubby pad for curved surfaces, is sufficient. Be careful not to burn the wood with the heat gun. I then clean the teak with Snappy 2 part cleaner (NEVER use a brush - just a green scrubby pad). Wear heavy neoprene gloves, and use LOTS of water on the teak and all adjacent surfaces. The teak will sand (if you need to) easily with 320.
WIth this method you will not damage the wood or unnecessarily wear it away by sanding the cetol off.
Then apply 2 coats of cetol teak. If you are not going to step on the surface then you can put 2 coats of cetol clear and you will get a great near-to- varnish finish.
I do not recommend cetol for decks. Just clean in the fashion I outlined above and use a good teak oil, like Tip Top Teak.
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  #13  
Old 12-27-2010
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Welcome to the forum 4engine... Being your first post, you probably didn't notice that this thread hasn't been posted to in over 7 years. Most prefer to engage in fairly current discussions or just start their own new one.

Cetol removal is an age old problem. It seems more people want it off than on. I prefer off.
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2010
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I'm a bit surprised it took to the 12th post in this old thread that somebody mentioned a heat gun. Heat gun and scrapers, lots of them. Works like a charm.
Welcome 4enginesailor.
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Old 12-28-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
I'm a bit surprised it took to the 12th post in this old thread that somebody mentioned a heat gun. Heat gun and scrapers, lots of them. Works like a charm.
Welcome 4enginesailor.
Caleb--That may be because heat does not do particularly well on Cetol, but can make an unnecessary mess. A couple of good sharp cabinet scrapers will make short work of Cetol and a keeping a shop-vac close at hand during the process can pretty much eliminate mess.

On Cetol colors, our dock neighbors recently redid their birghtwork with Cetol Natural Teak finish and 3 coats of gloss with excellant results. We will move from Cetol Light to the Natural Teak finish during our spring re-fit.

FWIW...
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  #16  
Old 12-28-2010
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Cetol Natural Teak does look very nice.

I've used the heat gun on our teak toe rails that were previously varnished. This might explain why I was under the impression a heat gun would work.
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  #17  
Old 12-29-2010
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Caleb--

Varnish seems to be much softer than Cetol and does give itself up to heat pretty readily. Cetol not so much although some do try to use heat. It is the relative hardness of Cetol that seems to make it more seseptable to scraping. I recently did a 10' long 3.5" wide teak grab-rail in about 15 minutes with a good quality scraper that pulled the Cetol and did very little damage to the underlying wood, which needed only a few minutes with 220 sandpaper. Frankly, the only thing I've come across that seems to damage Cetol is bird poop. Here in southwest Florida we seem to have a lot of Ospreys of late and their waste is very damaging--hence the need to redo our grab-rails.

Others may (certainly will) disagree with the foregoing but that has been my and a couple of my dock-mates experience. (A couple of us get together and share the cost of a quart of Cetol Gloss each Spring, and colored Cetol when necessary.)

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Old 12-29-2010
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I've had good luck removing a 10 year build up of the original color cetol with a heat gun and scrapper. The cetol natural was put back on and have been happy with the look. It was not clear to me if the gloss finish was necessary to add, but I found that adding the gloss helps with the UV protection. Wish cetol would make that clearer in their instructions.
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Old 12-29-2010
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Just to throw out another option, try a gel stripper ( either citrus or soy ) they work really well and they won't hurt the gelcoat, plus the scrappings stay moist enough that they won't blow around letting you have both hands free to work. After you've worked a area with good cabinet scrapers, you can go back with a shop vac and clean that area.
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