slipping winches - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 39 Old 11-01-2011 Thread Starter
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They do work better with larger lines. There are springs on the grippers, maybe they have gotten a bit weak over the years? I will check with a couple of local machine shops so see what they can can recommend. I am not sure about putting the non-skid on the drum, it may grip too much. Thanks for the feedback from all.
DD

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post #12 of 39 Old 11-01-2011
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try winching without using the self tailers if they grip ok the its in the self tailer if they dont it is the drum is too smooth
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post #13 of 39 Old 11-07-2011
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If you decide the drum is too smooth, a few minutes on a lathe with a knurling tool would fix it.
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post #14 of 39 Old 11-07-2011
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Self tailers are designed to work with lines within a specific range of sizes. It might be that you are using lines that are smaller than your winches were designed to use.
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post #15 of 39 Old 11-07-2011 Thread Starter
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I have used lines on these winches ranging from 5/16" (too small I know) to 1/2". The larger ones grip better, but still slip. The 3/8" and 7/16" slip quite a bit. Using the above logic, the drums are too smooth, but I am not sure about knurling them, though that is a pretty good thought. How will the chrome survive? Maybe have to re-chrome them? I have a full machine shop available to me and we have knurling tools that will do the trick. Gonna have to do some thinking on this one. Re chroming 6 winches will be pretty expensive; I could sell them and buy lewmars or harkens to replace them. Thanks for all the feedback.
DD

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post #16 of 39 Old 11-07-2011
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I naturally thought you'd buff off the chrome first. Why would you want chrome when you can have bronze?
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post #17 of 39 Old 11-08-2011
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I have used lines on these winches ranging from 5/16" (too small I know) to 1/2". The larger ones grip better, but still slip. The 3/8" and 7/16" slip quite a bit. Using the above logic, the drums are too smooth, but I am not sure about knurling them, though that is a pretty good thought. How will the chrome survive? Maybe have to re-chrome them? I have a full machine shop available to me and we have knurling tools that will do the trick. Gonna have to do some thinking on this one. Re chroming 6 winches will be pretty expensive; I could sell them and buy lewmars or harkens to replace them. Thanks for all the feedback.
DD
If you go that route, go very easy on the knurling - you don't want them getting a surface like the handle of a breaker bar or you'll really wear out your lines quickly.

Have you had another experienced sailor check them out? They might be able to spot something you missed. A winch shouldn't require anything close to a knurled surface to grip properly.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #18 of 39 Old 11-08-2011
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I think the others have nailed the issue -- smooth drums, weak tailer springs, worn tailer gripping surfaces, or some combination of the above. In two of those three conditions you will need to purchase new parts.

Barient went out of business years ago, but parts are available from Hutton-Arco in Australia, also known as the Australian Winch Company. I have Barients too, and when I needed bearings they were the only source of parts I could find. Take a look at their web page: HUTTON-ARCO Yacht Winches

Good luck!

T. P. Donnelly
S/V Tranquility Base
1984 Islander 30 Bahama
Pasadena, MD
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post #19 of 39 Old 12-14-2011 Thread Starter
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I believe we are down to smooth drums. I did call Allen Hutton with Hutton Arco and they can rework 2 winches for $300. I will probably do that if I can figure out the shipping within reason. Any ideas? Thanks for all the feedback from you guys!
DD

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post #20 of 39 Old 12-14-2011
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I believe we are down to smooth drums. I did call Allen Hutton with Hutton Arco and they can rework 2 winches for $300. I will probably do that if I can figure out the shipping within reason. Any ideas? Thanks for all the feedback from you guys! DD
I'd talk to some local people first - machine shops, mast builders - like that. Shipping even the drums to Oz is going to co$t. Shipping is usually charged by both weight & volume and you'll have the weight.

You don't need much texture on the drums - well less than normal knurling. Perhaps a machine shop can suggest another method of lightly texturing them.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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