slipping winches - Page 3 - SailNet Community

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post #21 of 39 Old 12-15-2011
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This problem is very common on well used winches. The drum gets worn smooth. I have aluminum Lewmars that I really need to do something with.

You really need the chrome to keep the bronze from corroding but I need the anodizing even more. I kept meaning to try a few vertical strips of epoxy with a bit of filler in it on the drums to see if that would add enough friction, before taking them off for rework.

I now have to wait till the boat goes back in the water to try it. There was a machinist/sailor here or maybe on another forum named Bam that did this work. Trying to find his contact info.
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post #22 of 39 Old 12-15-2011
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For a short term solution, try a single wrap of duct tape around the drum.

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post #23 of 39 Old 12-15-2011
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When I reduced the diameter of the sheets for the yankee I also experienced slippage in my self tailing winches. I have Barlow 27 self tailers and the slippage was due to the self tailer not gripping the sheet properly. I have spacers which allows for adjustment to the diameter of the sheets so that decreasing the gap of the self tailer will result in non slippage. Too much gap reduction will result in jamming the sheet.
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post #24 of 39 Old 12-15-2011
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Just to cover the base in this discussion, are you putting enough turns on the winch so the drum is completely filled with turns, i.e. probably four turns for 5/8 line or six to seven for 3/8 line? The turns are needed to generate holding friction. just checking...

FWIW back when I discussed the tendency of my jib sheets to slip on the winch with a sailmaker, who said the sheets were worn (they were), and that getting new sheets would resolve the problem for me. That made no sense to me at the time (still doesn't), but after getting new sheets, he was right...

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post #25 of 39 Old 12-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary M View Post
This problem is very common on well used winches. The drum gets worn smooth. I have aluminum Lewmars that I really need to do something with.

You really need the chrome to keep the bronze from corroding but I need the anodizing even more. I kept meaning to try a few vertical strips of epoxy with a bit of filler in it on the drums to see if that would add enough friction, before taking them off for rework.

I now have to wait till the boat goes back in the water to try it. There was a machinist/sailor here or maybe on another forum named Bam that did this work. Trying to find his contact info.
You would be talking about Bam Miller. I did not think to contact him. Good call.
DD

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post #26 of 39 Old 12-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Just to cover the base in this discussion, are you putting enough turns on the winch so the drum is completely filled with turns, i.e. probably four turns for 5/8 line or six to seven for 3/8 line? The turns are needed to generate holding friction. just checking...

FWIW back when I discussed the tendency of my jib sheets to slip on the winch with a sailmaker, who said the sheets were worn (they were), and that getting new sheets would resolve the problem for me. That made no sense to me at the time (still doesn't), but after getting new sheets, he was right...
Plenty of turns, new sheets, old sheets, does not matter. I think the drums are just worn smooth. Also the comments about shipping are correct, it is really expensive to ship to Australia.
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post #27 of 39 Old 12-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Any recommendations for a chrome shop that will rechrome several winches?

Doug
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Last edited by j34035; 12-15-2011 at 09:48 PM. Reason: not smart enough to speal
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post #28 of 39 Old 12-15-2011
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If they are chrome winches, you are going to have trouble adding texture to them without damaging the chrome. If they are stainless, you can tape off the part you don't want textured and sand blast the rest.

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post #29 of 39 Old 12-16-2011
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post #30 of 39 Old 12-16-2011
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I second on sand blasting the surface. I've raced on boats where the drums were blasted to restore the grip. It worked like a charm.
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