slipping winches - Page 4 - SailNet Community
 8Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #31 of 39 Old 12-17-2011 Thread Starter
"Sparkie"
 
j34035's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Jackson, Missouri
Posts: 343
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by allene222 View Post
If they are chrome winches, you are going to have trouble adding texture to them without damaging the chrome. If they are stainless, you can tape off the part you don't want textured and sand blast the rest.

Allen
I talked to Allen Hutton with Hutton-Arco Winches in Australia, and his recommendation was to de-chrome the winches, knurl the gripping surface and re-chrome. The chrome will be destroyed and flake off if knurling is attempted without de chroming.
DD

Doug
Jboat J/37c (new to me Jan 2011); J/22 #1003


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
j34035 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 39 Old 12-17-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 307
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 5
 
GREETINGS EARTHLINGS; You can takeyoiur drums to a machine shop and ask them to knerl them for you. That is the name of the process of putting littel dimaonds on to the grip as found on some hand wrenches and spanners the main cost is to set up the drum on the lathe. GOOD LUCK GO SAFE
captflood is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #33 of 39 Old 12-17-2011
Senior Moment Member
 
SloopJonB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 11,447
Thanks: 59
Thanked 69 Times in 66 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by j34035 View Post
I talked to Allen Hutton with Hutton-Arco Winches in Australia, and his recommendation was to de-chrome the winches, knurl the gripping surface and re-chrome. The chrome will be destroyed and flake off if knurling is attempted without de chroming.
DD
IIRC your winches are chromed BRONZE - if so, why pay all that money to rechrome them? Have it removed and polish them - they will be gorgeous, cheaper and you won't have to get it done again in a few years. Chrome plating has no place on a boat IMHO - it will ALWAYS pit, peel, wear through and generally fail. The best quality plating will only last a little longer. Bronze is the ultimate marine metal. They have found bronze pieces from ancient Rome in the Med that are in virtually perfect condition under the coating of verdigris.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
SloopJonB is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #34 of 39 Old 12-17-2011 Thread Starter
"Sparkie"
 
j34035's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Jackson, Missouri
Posts: 343
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by captflood View Post
GREETINGS EARTHLINGS; You can takeyoiur drums to a machine shop and ask them to knerl them for you. That is the name of the process of putting littel dimaonds on to the grip as found on some hand wrenches and spanners the main cost is to set up the drum on the lathe. GOOD LUCK GO SAFE
I have access to a full machine shop at my work place including lathes and knurling equipment. My only Issue is re chroming because the knurling process will kill the finish on existing chrome. I am going to do something this winter to improve the performance of my primaries. Thanks for the suggestions!
DD

Doug
Jboat J/37c (new to me Jan 2011); J/22 #1003


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
j34035 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #35 of 39 Old 12-17-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Nanaimo B.C.
Posts: 2,518
Thanks: 3
Thanked 56 Times in 56 Posts
Rep Power: 4
 
Any high school metal shop has the necessary stuff to do this. Chat up the local shop teacher ( he probably is building a boat in his yard) and see if he has a bright live wire in one of his classes that needs a project. Been there! And go for the bronze, it is more classy!
Capt Len is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #36 of 39 Old 01-15-2012 Thread Starter
"Sparkie"
 
j34035's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Jackson, Missouri
Posts: 343
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 9
 
Just a followup for anyone who is interested. On these Barient winches (22's, 24's and 28's), there are compression springs that supply the gripping force on the self tailers. These springs allow the self tailers to adjust to different sizes of line. Apparantly, my springs have fatigued over the years and do not supply sufficient gripping force. I replaced the springs with spacers to test. This kept the self tailer from opening for a larger line. Bottom line (bad pun, sorry) is, the line grips securely and will tension properly while grinding without slipping. Thanks for all the help and advice! Now I need to find replacement springs so they will adjust properly; either that or standardize my line sizes so they do not have to adjust.
DD
Faster likes this.

Doug
Jboat J/37c (new to me Jan 2011); J/22 #1003


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
j34035 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #37 of 39 Old 01-15-2012
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 888
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by j34035 View Post
Just a followup for anyone who is interested. On these Barient winches (22's, 24's and 28's), there are compression springs that supply the gripping force on the self tailers. These springs allow the self tailers to adjust to different sizes of line. Apparantly, my springs have fatigued over the years and do not supply sufficient gripping force. I replaced the springs with spacers to test. This kept the self tailer from opening for a larger line. Bottom line (bad pun, sorry) is, the line grips securely and will tension properly while grinding without slipping. Thanks for all the help and advice! Now I need to find replacement springs so they will adjust properly; either that or standardize my line sizes so they do not have to adjust.
DD
Doug,
I didn't contribute anything here, because I don't know much about selftailers. But I was wondering about all the comments about the drums being too smooth. I used to be an electrician and we used a Greenlee wire puller, which looks a lot like a sailboat winch. The drum was aluminum and smooth, and ours was worn an 1/8" or more smaller. For it to pull in several hundred feet of rope without a cross over the coils had to climb the wider part of the drum and slip the all the coils sideways towards the smaller end. That wouldn't happen with a knurled drum. We would pull with so much force on a 3/4" nylon line that water would bead up on the surface! Sometimes we even broke them, but because all the rope was inside the pipe the snap back was contained. So I am happy to hear you've figured out the tailer is the real issue.

Gary H. Lucas
GaryHLucas is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #38 of 39 Old 01-15-2012
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 78
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
I love my Andersen winches just because the drum is smooth for vertical but resists motion around the winch. They have "speed bumps" that run up and down and let the rope slip up but resists slipping the other way. That said, the Barient winches that have the texture work better imho than the ones that are completely smooth, particularly with wet line.
allene222 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #39 of 39 Old 01-16-2012
1982 Skye 51
 
obelisk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Somewhere between NZ and the Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 370
Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
What number are the winches?

I didn't see any mention of the model number of your Barient winches. I have Barient winches as well (36 Primaries, 32 Secondaries, 28 mainsheet/furlers/halyards, and 23 halyards). Occasionally I will take my headsail furling line to the Barient 32 secondaries, because they are more conveniently located for one person to tail the sheet and crank the furler, and under load they will slip due to the line being just a bit too small for the self-tailer. you want a very snug fit--the top and bottom half should move apart significantly when you snug the line in. btw, these winch drums are almost completely smooth after 29 years and still going strong! if you do rework them, they should be re-chromed by a professional shop.

"The notion of life implies a certain absoluteness of self-enjoyment." -Alfred North Whitehead


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
obelisk is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Safe grounding, without slipping BudgieSmugglers Cruising & Liveaboard Forum 4 01-11-2011 06:55 PM
slipping winch xort Gear & Maintenance 13 08-08-2008 04:04 AM
High RPM = slipping out of forward??? olysailor Atomic 4 10 06-21-2008 09:24 AM
Slipping at Anchor nauticalrich General Discussion (sailing related) 22 05-18-2006 01:14 PM
Hurth HBW-5 tranny slipping??? Philschophoto@comcast.net Ericson 0 05-17-2006 04:37 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome